I wanted to check with the community to see how many people have headers for street applications. Why am I asking? Well let's just say that I have headers on my ride and they have been causing all types of headaches ranging from difficult to replace the starter to heat impacting starter from working. I have a mini-starter but I am looking for additional recommendations on how to keep the heat from impacting my starter. I have also put a head shield wrap around the starter and the headers are ceramic coated. Help!Thanks!
perform a voltage drop test as shown.. post the results..please perform tests 2, 3 and 4 while somebody cranks the engine.. you want to make sure that you have well connected battery and ground cables.. so there is little voltage drop..when the engine was painted.. was the bell housing face of the block painted?? you might want to perform a NEGATIVE battery post to the starter housing voltage drop test while cranking.. the starter is grounded to the separator shield which is mounted to the transmission.. which is bolted to the back of the block.. paint reduces contact.. so there me be some voltage drop issue on the ground side.. hint.. if you are using a 7/16 stud to mount the mini starter. you might want to get one thats just slightly longer.. and run an additional ground cable directly to the starter mounting.. .. slightly longer would allow you to install a nut on the stud to mount the starter tight.. and then a cable ring terminal and another nut to pinch that between the 2 nuts now on the stud. this allows the first nut to tightly mount the starter. and the second to properly attach the cable.. you did not ask for all this.. sorry...somebody will have some more info closer to what you ask .. and if you are running a chrysler electronic ignition box on the firewall. please run an additional ground strap from the back of the head to the module mounting bolt.. this shortens the spark high voltage return path and prevents the module from burning out.. if you are running an External box MSD unit.. please ground the large black cable to the engine also.. that's the return path for those also.. reduces blow outs of the MSD..
Thanks for the reply, the heat I am referring to is from the engine running. After the car is started normally and runs for a while (to get warm), if you try to start it, the starter will drag, which is assumed to be due to the engine/exhaust heat since it starts normally when the engine is cool.
i understand your concern .. but i have been fixing cars professionally for over 30 years.. these tests might take 10 minutes.. well actually about 20 with the neg battery to the starter housing while cranking cold..a few examples..this guy had starting and charging issues.. where the voltage would surge..see the crimp where the battery cables are attached to the terminal. its actually loose.. the cranking voltage drop test narrowed it down till it was found.. why does this work..when there is a poor contact.. when you put load across it.. it will reduce voltage on the far side... if you have a digital volt meter on both sides of it. when the voltage drops going thru the bad connection.. it will show up on the meter.. the 4/100 or 2/100ths of a volt is expected because that is the resistance of the copper wire...if you tested your alternator output to the battery in that 69 with the headlights on and the engine running..i will bet you get 0.7 volts.. thats 7/10ths of a volt.. thats actually an expected voltage drop because of the length of the circuit between the alternator and the battery.. i had a friend bring his 71 Cuda over and his was just over 1.1 volts..i made him go and find that extra 4/10th of a volt of resistance.. and fix that connection..
I'll try to work on the voltage drop text next weekend. If it were a ground/voltage problem, wouldn't it behave the same way with cool or warm engine?
Would you expect the 4/100ths & 2/100ths drop to remain consistent even if the battery was moved to the trunk?
no.. slightly more.. but still in the hundredths.. of a volt.. perhaps a tenth of a volt.. there was a forum post over in gmhightechperformance about a NHRA cut off switch with a 200+ amp alternator and a rear mounted battery.. the NHRA specs say push to shut off.. i mentioned that i don't like EXPOSED terminals in the trunk of a car.. using some ABS or PVC closet flanges and a short section of matching plastic pipe between them would create a great mounting base.. cutting a slot for the cables to lay into still attached to the switch body.. probably won't help you .. who knows...hint.. run the voltage drop test using jumper cables layed out under the car from the battery in the back and only one at a time hooked up to the battery.. the other end clipped to one test lead of the volt meter..you don't need connections that look like this
say.. with a rear mounted battery.. where is your Negative cable attached at .. does it run directly to the body??? or does it run forward to the engine block.. ??i realize the positive cable runs forward to the starter or a terminal block.. you can run test 2 at the back of the car.. while somebody cranks the engine..negative post.. to the body.. ..snap some pictures... upload them to photobucket. dot com.. it's free... paste the links here.. this way i and others can see what might be an issue.. i am really good at this..
Negative cable (large cable made for moving the battery to the trunk) is connected to the bellhousing.