I have a 72 cuda with point/condensor, would like to upgrade to electronic, like stock look, can anyone advise if the pertronics conversion using my old distributor is effective vs the chrysler box type with new distributor? thanks in advance!
personally i would just go to the bone yard and get the best looking wiring i could find under hood. pull a good looking under the cap V-8 distributor at the same time and take them home. clean/rebuild the oem # matchimg distributor and convert it with parts from the bone yard find. then get a NEW orange box module and wire it up... done deal, cheap, all mopar!
the pertronix kit works great.. are so easy to install its crazy not to swap out points to them. think under 10 minutes. and.. if you keep your points and condenser+ screws handy.. if it ever burns out.. which with all electronic ignitions does happen sometimes.. you can swap back to points in 10 or 15 minutes.. the advantage of the chrysler electronic ignition conversion...if something breaks.. you can get components in almost any parts store.. and junk yards. if you are good at wiring.. the mopar conversion is a sure way to go. a few months back.. and i am hoping they have fixed the problems there were out of stock issues for the small block distributor kits.. and some quality issues with bent shafts or wobbly reluctors. if you decide to install the mopar conversion.. please invest the extra 5 or 6 bucks at the local parts store and purchase the Help brand 15" braided ground strap.. install it from the back of the engine to the mounting screws on the module.. this is the spark return path of the ignition high voltage circuit.. your mopar ignition module will live MUCH longer.. if you type ignition in the search window above right.. you will probably come up with several articles on various ignition conversions.
hi wayne, learn something every day! great tip on the ground to module, didnt know that. thanks for sharing bro!
Thanks,Wayne, this is great info, leaning towards pertronix, just finished major metal work and dont have the cash for the full upgrade now.
just to let you know, I have installed this on my 1971 challenger over 12years ago and no problems so far also installed on boat with 350 chev corvette 1972 and 1952 8n ford tractor all no problems. installs with 2 wires both to coil and you can reinstall the points if necessary. jetmech
by the way... i should have done this before..http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/sch/02/ignition/photos/?SearchSource=this takes you to an image in one of several ignition system articles..page thru the images.. there is a button to click .. back to the article.. that will take you to the article.. so you can read the text thats there also..
thank YOU wayne!! i read the ignition upgrade 321 article, amazing that the engine could gain so much power!! i was surprised to learn that the orange box has durability problems. do you think the ground wire from the engine block to the module can make a significant improvement in module life?
ok.. lets go into how it works..the key being turned on sends positive power to the coil positive terminal.. the ignition module power transistor makes and breaks the ground connection to the negative side of the coil..when .. the power transistor grounds primary winding the electrons rush in and create a magnetic field. as the points open or the reluctor tips pass the pickup coil.. the negative connection is disconnected and the magnetic field collapses thru the secondary windings and creates a high voltage spark.. the high voltage spark heads out thru the coil wire.. thru the cap center button, across the rotor, jumps a gap to the cap terminal down the spark plug wires and jumps another gap at the spark plugs .. wait... where does it go from there.. it has to make a complete circle back to someplace..so.. into the heads it goes.. into the block.. on a points ignition it goes back to the distributor housing to complete the circuit.. that's why you get shocked when you have the distributor housing out of the motor and spin the shaft with the key on. but with the mopar electronic ignition.. the high voltage needs to make it back to the ignition module housing as that is actually grounded to the firewall.. lets follow the ground path... cylinder head.. block.. negative battery cable to the battery terminal.. out the thinner wire to the inner fender and around to the cowl where it hopefully connect to the module thru the screws mounting it to the firewall.. oh.. electrons follow the outside of the conductors. the braided weave allow the electrons to take the shortest route..if you install the braided ground strap.. between the back of the head or heads(2) to the mounting screw on the module.. you have shortened the high voltage spark return path by yards... look at this diagram and follow the high voltage output from the coil to the distributor cap.. down to the spark plugs .. and figure out how it gets to the module.. if you agree and i hope that you do.. please spend another few minutes to prove the ground system is properly connected on your car with a digital volt meter .. perform a voltage drop test..this is printable...and only takes 2 minutes to run the 4 part test... run the 4 part test on every car you own.. stick the printed page to the wall of your shop.. so you can learn it.. it works great on computerized cars also.. if you think that point type cars improve with proper grounding.. you should see how it effects computerized cars..
guess. what.. overcharging can also be traced to ground issues.. but i will explain an additional cause to search out.. notice the voltage regulator is also mounted to the firewall.. that gets grounded thru the same braided ground strap you have just installed or verified that its mounted to clean areas and has no voltage drop.. the center wire on the voltage regulator gets switched ignition power, it looks at the voltage between its case ground and the center wire to decide how much to pulse the side wire to change the size of the rotating magnetic field in the alternator..if the ground wire is missing.. the charging voltage will be incorrect... but.. i have found more issues on mopars with slightly elevated charging systemswhat causes this is reduced current flow thru the blue wire .. if the blue wire voltage is more than a few 10ths of a volt below battery voltage you will have an overcharging issue.. as the voltage regulator is trying to bring the charging system voltage up...break out your volt meter.. set it to 20 volts DC again.. engine running.. headlights on... lets do some measuring...positive battery post to to the alternator output stud.positive battery post to the threaded stud on the starter relaypositive battery post to the blue wire going into the ballast resistor..these in all reality.. should be below 0.7 volts.. but less is better.. you will get above 0.00.. if you get 0.00.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC or 2,000 Millivolts. retest..why.. if you look at almost all mopars are wired.. the alternator output goes thru the bulk head connector.. then across the amp meter. back thru the bulk head connector .. over to the starter relay stud.. down to the starter motor. and up the positive battery cable to get to the battery.. tha's a LONG way on most moparsyou can have corrosion/ burning issues at the bulk head connector. the fusible links.. the ignition switch .. or its contact terminals .. even the amp meter or its connections.. you may have reduced voltage coming out the blue wire to the ballast resistor and the voltage regulator.. you can also test the amp meter connection by doing the voltage drop test right at the engine side of the bulk head connector..find the thick wire from the starter relay stud and the alternator output wire..engine running.. headlights on.. how much do you get there.. should not be over 0.5 volts.. i would like to see less.. and i have not measured that circuit in a long time and i don't know what a good reading would be.. but it should be way under 1/2 a volt.. and to explain why i am having you measure the same side of the wiring ..the volt meters only read the difference between where you test them at..if the wiring is hooked up and the current is flowing thru it.. the only voltage difference you should be able to read is the actual resistance of the copper wire and terminals... 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the ground side..slightly higher on the positive side because of the thinner individual wires..
my brother another awesome post by you!! thank YOU VERY MUCH. have a GREAT day !!!