Hello again. Today I took the 68 Newport out for a spin and when I made a turn, some guy rudely yells "THANKS FOR THE BLINKER" at me. I had the right signal on, but apparently it wasn't working. I took the front right bulb out and it was burned out, so I replaced it with a new GE1157. Now I notice some weird things happening. The parking lights work with just the parking light switch on, but when the headlight switch is on, the parking lights go out and just the headlights come on. As far as I can recall both the parking and head lights are supposed to come on. Also the turn signals work when the lights are off, but with the parking lights on, there is only a very suttle change in brightness of the signals. With the amber lenses removed I can see that the large filament is on when the parking lights are on and the small filament flashes when the signal is on. I think the SMALL filament is supposed to come on with the parking light switch, and the LARGE filament with the signal. Do you agree? I know the bulbs are installed correctly, as they only go in one way. Any ideas on what's going on here?
the parking lights go out and just the headlights come on. is totally normal up until the early 70s.. Also the turn signals work when the lights are off, but with the parking lights on, there is only a very suttle change in brightness of the signals. you have a bad ground connection someplace on the turn signal sockets...you can strip back some stranded copper wire and make a twist around the base of the glass bulb.. then tighten the loop by twisting the bulb.. you can now reinsert the bulb and ground the end of the wire to the body.. or the battery negative...remember...electrons flow from Negative to positive... if you don't have enough ground connection you won't have a enough electrons to operate the circuit ...and you might be getting some electrons from other bulbs around the car...since you have a 68.. do you have side marker lights...they will have 2 wires to the side marker light.. one to the parking light circuit.. the other to ground...disconnect the ground side of the small side marker lights.. hook it to the same side turn signal circuit.. left side to the left turn signal circuit.. right side to the right turn signal circuit..this will make your side marker lights flash.. out of phase with the turn signal lights... but stay on when the tail or parking lights are on...if you are still having issues.. with the front parking lights... i will dig thru a wiring diagram and see if they are hooked to the tail lights.. but i also have to reverse engineer a headlight switch contacts order.. you could just have a ground issue...can you run the second half of this test...
Thanks for the detailed information! So I assume on the front parking lights, the turn signal should correspond to the large filaments in your diagrams (shown as STOP) and the parking lights use the small filament. The front sockets are definately corroded. I took one of the housings out and repeatedly twisted an old bulb in and out of the sockets to clean out the rusty metal. This improved the signal on that side, but I didnt have time to get to the other one yet. I'm gonna put some liquid wrench in there to dissolve more rust out. If I don't get adequate improvement, I will try the wire to ground trick. I've had this car for 27 years and never noticed that the parking lights go out when the headlights are on! It s good to know thats the way they are supposed to operate. I will have more time and better weather, in a few days to get to the voltage drop test and the other signal. The taillight sockets look fine with no corrosion at all. The license plate lamp works too. But there is an issue with the brake light if the turn signal switch isn't centered manually. It will self-cancel, but the stick hangs a little low unless you push it up a little. If you don't, the right brake light won't work. I'm also noticing now that the emergency flashers are not working. No clicking, nothing. I will report back in a few days when I perform a more thorough cleaning and do more testing.
turn signal switches or turn signal cams.C-BODY(Full size - Fury, Monaco, New Yorker, 300, Newport, etc.)69-67 w/tilt & telescopic wheel ............... N/A cam SM-15w/o tilt & telescopic wheelChrysler design (white) ............. SM106 or cam ***Saginaw built (reddish) ............. SM107 cam SM-1566-63 All ............................................................ SM102 or cam ****** May take either a SM-9, SM-13, or SM-16 depending onprevious replacement of switch.3 stars is a foot note for 3 possible turn signal cams...
oh.... a copper pipe cleaning brush for 1/2" sweat copper fittings works well at cleaning bulb sockets.. please don't use it with power on.... you don't have to clean all the way down.. only the 2 steps or even just the upper step... i also tend to bend the socket slightly.. so the bulb base drags on the edge.. there is bulb grease available at most parts stores in small packets...or you can use White lithium grease... on plastic sockets.. there is almost always a place to slide a looped wire thru .. and still insert it..i don't recall what the sockets look like on the front of that model???
and yes.. i could have the filaments backwards... on the diagram..
I finally got around to thoroughly cleaning out the bulb sockets and the signals are working fine now. I cleaned the contacts on a small box under the hood near the headlights assuming it was the flasher but they still didn't work. But after jiggling the flasher switch on the dash a bunch of times, it started working. This car sits too much! Thanks for the help.