I have a 68 Dodge Monaco. It was my dad's car I got in 2005 when he died. He was a very good shadetree mechancic and rebuilt the engine in 1995, drove it a little, and then let it set for years. I got the car and restored it - new paint job, repaired gas tank, etc., everything needed to get it running again. It's ran good for 7 years now. I had driven the car in February and it ran as usual, no problems. Next time I tried to drive was in June - I know, I shouldn't let it set that long and that's the first time that's happened. In June, when I cranked, it ran rough, missing, wouldn't idle. Finally died after ~10-12 seconds and wouldn't crank at all after that. Note - when it's set for a while, I always just poured a little gas in the carb, and it would fire right up and run okay after a few seconds. But this time, it was a very rough idle, missing, died. So I'm thinking ignition. It still had the points/condenser setup, so I finally broke down and replaced this weekend with the electronic ignition module and new coil. Poured a little gas in the carb, and it cranked, but same thing - running like crap. I could keep it running, even though rough, but I was by myself and couldn't get to the front and keep it going to check anything. So when I let off the gas, it died. Never could get it to crank again. I know the problem is not in the firing order because absolutely nothing had been done since it ran okay in February. I did not replace the distributor cap because again, it was okay in February. So not sure of the problem. Maybe fuel issue? I did change a fuel filter I had put in right before the fuel pump. It looked bad - sort of gummed up. That didn't help, still wouldn't start. I started thinking old gas, but that doesn't make sense because I'm pouring new/good gas in carb to start - it should at least fire. Voltage regular? Could carb be gummed up causing this? Carb is new 4-barrel Edelbrock installed in 2006. I'm not sure where to go right now with it and asking for help/suggestions. Thanks
gasoline can go bad in a few weeks... or if the cap does not seal.. much faster than that..more to come...you probably have fouled the spark plugs... which ignition did you install???? did a resistor bypass get installed so there is additional voltage to the positive side of the coil while cranking???got pictures.. can you clip a test light clip to the positive side of the coil... shove the probe into something to ground it...turn the key to the RUN position.. you should get a medium bright test light..while cranking.. you should get a bright test light..returning the key to the run position.. you should get a medium bright bulb again..
Cap on tank was sealed- I checked and it was tight.Could be fouled plugs but wouldn't even a fouled plug(s) still fire somewhat after the car ran bad after initially cranking. There was no fire at all after the initial crank - both June and past Sunday. You would think it would at least try and crank again, and run bad again. Wouldn't even do that.I did jumper across the ballast resistor with a wire. I didn't remove the resistor, just put a wire between the plugs - I think that should do it.Electronic ignition I installed was an Accel POINTS ELIMINATOR CONVERSION PART NO. 2030. The coil was an Accel 8140 Cannister coil. Instructions say can use without ballast resistor if using this coil - that's why jumpered across the plugs.Some more info - talking with a friend who has always messed with older cars. Subject of battery came up. Both times car cranked and ran bad, I had just charged battery. Both times car cranked on first try. Subsequent to first crank after going dead, you could easily hear battery going down fast trying to re-crank. You couldn't crank the car more than 10-12 seconds or so without getting close to zero. I would put the charger back on the battery while I was checking other things and re-cranking. Battery never did go back to full after first crank. Can the battery have insufficient voltage to maintain good spark/fire, but have to enough to engage starter? Battery is 7 years old. To eliminate this altogether, I went out last night a bought a new battery from Advance Auto - they had a coupon for $40 off purchase over $100. So the car gets a new battery and eliminates low voltage/bad battery as a potential problem, even if it wasn't one.My friend also mentioned a test light, which you advise as well. I'm going to swing by parts place and get one next day or so.Thanks.
this is a harbor freight 30779 and is under 5 bucks.. this is a harbor freight 37772 and is 20 bucks..this is a coil output tester .. available at most parts stores for under 8 bucks..you can even make your own...or just position the end of the coil wire 1/2" away from the engine block..please.. DON'T hold the coil wire with your hand.. while this is being done..it may turn into a shocking experience..it takes a minimum of diagnostic tools to work on cars...a digital volt meter.. since you don't have points.. you can get by with a conventional volt meter as is shown above.. a test light.. a spark tester...a timing light, a vacuum gauge, are also part of a minimum diagnostic tool kit..a remote starter button also helps a LOT...i expect that you have a spark plug socket and enough hand tools to change them.. and on mopars that can be a challenge.. i used to do the spark plugs on my aunts 68 new yorker.. from under the car.. it was quicker.. but that was a 440..