It has the 383 2bbl in it. When I bought it it didn't run. I was told someone messed with the timing, I later on got him to admit he threw it off. I've replaced the mechanical fuel pump, plugs, plug wires, distrib cap, rotar, condenser, points, battery. Carb has been rebuilt too. Still not firing :/. I've been fighting with it for maybe three weeks? I'm starting to think its dead (. I've set the timing and reset the timing. It will crank over but not start. I've tried dribbling gas down the carb while someone cranks, Not even a sputter. Can anyone give me a few ideas to try besides replacing the whole distrib which I plan on doing this week on work shut down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
well ... lets have a list of items installed on this motor???does it have a points type distributor or an electronic version????does it have a ballast resistor??? with a single terminal on each end or 2 on each end???do you have compression???? when checked with a compression tester that shows the timing chain has not slipped around a bad cam sprocket.???can you see the timing marks on the harmonic damper.. and the pointer...when the harmonic damper is at 5 before TDC.. which is where the timing usually set.. is the distributor rotor pointing toward either the number one or number six spark plug wire location in the cap???i normally pull the first spark plug on the drivers side.. use a remote starter button to crank the engine while i have my finger blocking the hole... i stop the engine while the pressure is still coming up in the cylinder.. i then slowly turn the crank to bring the harmonic damper mark to the 5 before mark... this if you have not gone past.. will be TDC #1.. the rotor should now be pointing toward the #1 wire.. if it is... grab the rotor.. give it a slight twist.. do the points open as you turn the rotor and close when you release...?????when the points are closed... the coil primary is being charged... when the points open after being closed.. the primary windings discharge their voltage and the magnetic field that voltage created collapsed thru the secondary winding creating a high voltage spark.. knowing this give you the ability to dead stick timing the car.. rotating the distributor housing to the point where you turn the rotor and the coil discharges.please list components used ..and if you have a test light???
lets start at the ignition coil....see the test light above... clip the clamp to the positive terminal of the coil... shove the probe into something to ground it...position this test light so you can see if from the drivers seat...turn the key to the ON position.. do you get a medium bright bulb glowing in the test light??? yes or no...if yes... crank the engine... the test light should actually get brighter while cranking...yes or no.. when you let the key return to the ON position.. the test light should go back to medium brightness.. yes or no...this test proves the ignition switch and ballast resistor are providing the proper amount of voltage to the coil...please don't bypass these steps ..i ask my cousin to run these simple tests.. he just blew by them.. ended up changing the ignition switch.. the parts store clerks told him to change the starter..... and when he got to the ballast resistor .. he found it broken in half and not supplying power.. his dodge van would crank and run when the key was in the crank position.. but would die when he let go of the key...if he had done the test.. above.. i would have had him check the ballast resistor..so please print and follow my tests step by step. i have been doing this for a while..
since this question gets ask a lot..i thru together a picture to help..this test takes longer to read and get the hood open than it does to run.