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Need advice with a motor rebuild

  
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Need advice with a motor rebuild

 
cooper504 cooper504
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 01/13
Posted: 01/04/13
11:07 PM

Hello all. I have been undergoing a build project with a 1968 charger for the past couple years. I just about have all the body work summed up and have hit a brick wall. I've always been a whiz with metal work but I am not by any means a gear head. I recently purchased a 68 440 block with the original crank and I'm not sure where to go from here. I assumed I would need it tanked for starters but as I said I am not sure. Would it be cheaper to have a builder take care of the whole project or order the parts myself to my preference and do what I can. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  

IQ52 IQ52
Guru | Posts: 853 | Joined: 06/10
Posted: 01/05/13
11:12 AM

In the interest of complete disclosure, I am an engine builder.

I have experienced first hand the disasters wrought by well meaning but inexperienced people rebuilding their engines.

It can however be accomplished. You should hook up with a friend that has experience with engine rebuilding and have them guide you through the process or there are many good books available that should be reread time and time again before beginning the process.

Three books to read, available from Amazon, would be:

How To Build Max Performance Big Blocks by Andy Finkbinder

Big Block Mopar Performance by Chuck Senatore

How To Rebuild Big Block Mopar Engines by Don Taylor

I recommend having an experience engine builder do the engine, UNLESS you have burning desire to do it yourself, AFTER reading the above books.  

waynep71222 waynep71222
User | Posts: 246 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/05/13
11:15 AM

there are about 40 car and truck magazines on this site.    probably 10 will have 440 build articles in them along with a bunch of them right here.. just type 440 into the search window above right.

there should be 20 to 30 big block mopar builds.. perhaps more than that..

would you like to read up on some of them...

there are DOZENS of ways if not hundreds of ways to ***

when you say...   you bought a 68 440 block and the original crank...   what else did you get..  are these together or apart..  lets identify the parts first..

got a block casting number.. and stamping number...

got a crank casting or forging number...

usually blocks get pressure washed.. . the bores examined to see what their current bore size is.. and what the wear from the previous build has worn so you know what bore oversize it might clean up at..  check the ridge around the top of the bores...

many people also after cleaning  and BEFORE any machine work is done.. have the block Magnafluxed..  they place a big u shaped electro magnet across areas on the block and sprinkle iron powder across  the block.. if a crack is there.. the iron filings will line up along the crack.. even if the crack is invisible..  the cranks can be done in a similar fashion...   usually with a different type of tool...  the crank can be sent right to the crank grinder...  where it will be ground to the first possible undersize... you will be responsible for it to be stored standing up on its end.. kept away from liquid splash..   sometimes the crank grinder will coat it with a protectant spray or brushing to prevent corrosion issues.. you will need a set of narrow tubular wire brushes to clean the passages before installation..  

so ..describe what your ideas are.. and what parts you have to start with..

there are a lot of smart people on this forum who will be glad to give you advice..  

waynep71222 waynep71222
User | Posts: 246 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/05/13
11:24 AM

this starts with the machining done...

but there are a bunch more articles..

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0503_440_project_engine_build/viewall.html  

waynep71222 waynep71222
User | Posts: 246 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/05/13
11:31 AM

you will also want to  read this article

does not matter its a different brand of motor... theory stands for all engines...

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1207_short_block_blueprinting_basics/  

cooper504 cooper504
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 01/13
Posted: 01/05/13
02:38 PM

Thank all of you for your advice. It’s a great place to start after being in the dark for so long. As for the block itself i found the stamping and coded it up to be a 1968 440. It has the original steel crank installed with every piston seized up. Both heads were removed prior to me purchasing it. Since the motor is pretty much stripped I figured I could just start from the ground up. To answer a question, I don't really feel a burning desire to do the build myself. I'm just interested in having a solid everyday motor that I can count on and always have a little horsepower in reserve. From yalls experience, what price range would I be looking at to have someone experienced do this? I'm interested in a possible stroker with dual 4 barrel carbs. Sorry I can't be more specific. I don't know what I would prefer as far as heads, pistons, push rods ect.  

pepsi1 pepsi1
User | Posts: 150 | Joined: 10/11
Posted: 01/05/13
08:19 PM

cooper504:

Choose the engine builder wisely. Ask questions.

Bob  

451Mopar 451Mopar
User | Posts: 220 | Joined: 07/10
Posted: 01/05/13
11:43 PM

Not sure where you live, but Mopar car clubs can be helpful and will know the machine shops in your area that can help you blueprint the engine.
Information everyone will ask is how the car will be used?  If you have any horsepower or performance goals, and the budget?  

waynep71222 waynep71222
User | Posts: 246 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/06/13
08:51 AM

a HUGE QUESTION...

the engine is completely seized...   i worry about this statement..   is each cylinder filled with RUST...

rust can eat into the cylinder walls... until they are damaged beyond boring...   the corrosion might build up on the pistons that it might expand and crack the cylinder walls..
cylinders can be sleeved... do people like sleeve repaired blocks.. usually not..


you might want to with the engine block on a stand...  one bank of cylinders straight up... cover the tops with penetrating oil.   if you can carve a chunk of 6x6 into a round.. the size of the bores... you might be able to hammer on piston tops that are part way down the cylinder.. NOT AT TDC.. to bust them loose a little at a time..

if the bearings spun or seized and locked up the crank... thats another issue...

the books listed above will help...


more reading below...

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1211_rb_series_mopar_440ci_engine_upgrade_to_512ci/


http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0103_how_to_stock_buildup_a_440_magnum/viewall.html  

drmopar drmopar
Guru | Posts: 1445 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 01/06/13
11:30 AM

No mechanical experience? engine already has issues? Find a reputable machine shop and save yourself lots of greaf. You will learn plenty just installing the beast.
Good Luck Cool  

cooper504 cooper504
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 01/13
Posted: 01/06/13
11:15 PM

Thank all of you so much for this information. I live in a community where if you don't drive a chevy its a sin so this is really refreshing. I like the idea of putting it on a stand. It's been sitting staight up on my shop floor for about a month. I live about 45 minutes from houston and I have seen numerous shops devoted solely to mopar. I guess I should just get my hands on as much information as I can on the area. As far as the cars use goes, I just plan on it being a weekend driver with an occasional trip to the track on amature night. Another question I have is the type of trans I should persue. From my research I have done, I'm thinking of a 727 torqueflite. Any thoughts?  

451Mopar 451Mopar
User | Posts: 220 | Joined: 07/10
Posted: 01/07/13
12:04 AM

If the car came with an automatic, then the 727 would be the easy solution.