Help! I have a problem with the engine stalling out when the temperature reaches optimal level. Engine dies and will not restart, even with fuel poured directly into the carb. No spark. After engine cools, restarts with no problem! Have replaced so many parts to find the problem, with no success. New carb., plugs, wires, coil, starter, fuel pump, fuel filter, ballist resistor, ignition module. Even paid a local Dodge dealership to look at it, when they couldn't figure out the problem, they told me... "they don't have mechanics that know anything about carbuerated engines." CAN YOU BELIEVE THAT!!! Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Your problem could be fuel vapour lock. This is common in small block mopars in the heat of the summer, especially after being shut off for 10-20 minutes in the heat and you try and start it up again. Try mounting the fuel filter before the fuel pump. The stock set up is not ideal, it has the fuel filter close to the carb just above the intake. When hot, this can actually cause the fuel to boil in the filter and in the carb once you crank it to start.. This is a bigger problem with Edelbrock and AVS 4 barrel carbs, but can also effect carter two barrels as well. Good luck..
I had the same problem with my old 460 ford truck, like he said it was vapor lock and yes it was a carter (edelbrock). Putting a phenolic carb spacer under the carb helps if it's the carb also blocking off the heat transfers in the intake will help. That's also a great thing about the edelbrock performer rpm air gaps, they keep the carb cooler. Good Luck
No spark. have u literally tested for spark, or is it no start? test for ignition spark. if u have no spark I can't imagine replacing carb,starter,fuel pump. hot and no spark is most likely coil, I know u said u replaced coil, try another one?
pickup coil...... and the RELUCTOR...warning. there are 2 different pick up coil types.a single pick up coil type for use with a conventional ignition module.. and a dual pickup coil for use with the lean burn computer system that many of these cars have... do you have a big box on the air cleaner.. says chrysler lean burn.. has a bunch of wires plugged into the bottom.. that can be failing also... and they do .. but change the pick up coil and reluctor first.. they are a lot cheeper and will die just like you describe...you can test them if you have a digital volt meter.. set meter to 2K ohms... measure pick up coil resistance... usually around 980 ohms.. 500 to 1500 is expected... before disconnecting .. flip meter to 2 volts or 20 volts AC... have somebody crank the motor or spin the shaft if the distributer is out.. you need to see CLOSE To 1.0 volt.. if you don't get close to 1.0 volts AC .. you will not be creating enough AC signal voltage to turn on the power transistor in the ignition module or the lean burn computer.. oh.. and reluctors can go bad... if they are rusty.. been sprayed with carb cleaner.. gotten wet... been sand blasted by a rebuilder.. change them... they are cheep... when they go bad.. its not obvious.. they just don't retain enough magnetic field to break the pick up coil windings to make the 1.0 volts AC.. also note which side the pin is in... single pick up distributer..a warning... if you have a feed back carb.. with the round metal can with 2 wires coming out the back center of the carb... DO NOT SPRAY CLEAN the carb... the plastic parts in that very very hard to get mixture control solenoid melt with most carb or brake cleaner sprays..
Thanks for all of your input guys, I'm on it!!
Thanks for all of your input guys! I replaced the distributor and all is great! Runs like a top!