1970 440 Cuda slow crank

I have a 1970 Plymouth Cuda that has a slow cranking issue. After cranking two or three times it would stop cranking. The battery terminals would get hot too. The Battery cables are new (Positive and Negative), Starter, ballast resistor, coil, ignition module are new. The ground areas are from the negative cable to the radiator support, Right side cylinder head to the firewall. Need Help!!!  

1970 cuda - awesome. u need 3 grounds - small neg cable to body, engine to body, so far good, 3 - large neg cable to engine. this is kinda basic, so if u have a large neg to engine, then the other thing u did not mention is  a new battery, or charge the old unit  

The ground areas are from the negative cable to the radiator support (8 gauge wire), Right side cylinder head to the firewall(8 gauge wire). I have the 4 Gauge Battery Cable, Neg battery terminal to Left Front Cylinder Head Ground that is 4 Gauge .  I recharged and installed the old battery, it cranks over two or three times normal then becomes slower and slower then stops cranking.  

The timing is correct. Its not a new battery but its a recharged battery with 800 cca.  

are the ground cables attached to the block on a PAINT free area... and usually the ground cable attaches to the block not the head...

if you have a digital volt meter i have a quick test..


turn the headlights on for one minute then off..

set digital volt meter to 20 volt DC scale...

12.65 is a fully charged battery...

12.45 is a 3/4 charged battery

12.25 is a 1/2 charged battery..

you need to have over 12.5 volts to do any cranking tests

can you clip your volt meter leads from the BATTERY NEGATIVE POST... and the other to the engine block...  have somebody crank the engine..   you should have less than 1.0 volts DC.. while cranking..

can you do the same with the starter large post... to the battery positive..  then again crank the motor for a few seconds..

you should probably get slightly more than 1.0 volts DC ... i would prefer to see less on both these tests..

with these tests.. you are actually  testing the connection between the battery posts and the block and between the starter..

post results...

do the battery voltage test from positive to negative with the engine cranking also..



you could have a bad starter.. or be attaching the starter to a PAINTED surface...


you can also test the starter while cranking.. between the engine block and the starter housing..  do the cranking test..

you should get almost NO reading between the starter housing and the block... if you do.. clean the mounting surfaces..

you might also just have a bad starter..

some parts stores will test these...  warning...    it must be a quick test..    these are NOT designed for free running..

they are gear reduction. and the armature will explode..   it will stay contained in the black round area.. but the starter will usually not make any noise at that point..  

If you boost it is it ok??? If so battery is toast. Just because a battery is on a charger for 2 days doesn't mean it will HOLD a charge anymore. If your not sure get it loadtested at a garage.  
4 cylinders are only half a real motor.

throw on good jumper cables and get back to us  

I clean the Ground Area to bare metal. I have a good crank now but just wont start up. I got a Brand new battery yesterday. I checked and I'm getting spark to the plugs.  

getting spark and cranking good, also need fuel and compression  

could the spark be to weak to start up the motor.  I spray the starter fluid be nothing.  

first....   what kind of Ignition system do you have????


do you have POINTS and condenser.. as that came originally..

have you upgraded to a chrysler electronic ignition system...

or do you have one of the many after market  electronic ignition systems..



if you are NOT running MSD ..  do you have a digital volt meter or a test light..

a test light will work..



the CLIP goes on the positive coil connection..      stick the probe into something to ground it...

turn the key to the RUN position..   the test light bulb should glow at a medium brightness

turn the key to the CRANKING position...   the test light bulb should glow at full brightness..

do this simple test...

post your results..

you can do the same test with the digital volt meter...    9.6 volts KEY ON..   12.1 volts CRANKING..  

if you have an MSD ignition.. other than the drop in distributer..    the ORANGE wire to the coil positive from the MSD box has about 400 volts on it.. and will blow out your test light and let the smoke out of your digital volt meter...


if you have points .. do you have a dwell meter????/ so you can set them.

Harborfreight has their digital automotive meter on sale right now for 30 bucks..  and there should be a coupon in your print issue..



LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit ITEM # 95670  

i have upgraded to a chrysler electronic ignition system  

Key on 6.02,  Cranking 7.92-8.02  

After thinking about it.  It did start up before I put the dash in with the old wiring harness.  The engine, trans, front & rear light harnesses are new.  I might have a electronic somewhere in the old harness??