Ad Radar
Facebook Click here to find out more!

headlights

  
Mopar Muscle
Item Posts    Sort Order

headlights

 
slantsixben slantsixben
User | Posts: 67 | Joined: 04/11
Posted: 10/28/11
02:03 PM

hey guys just got done fixing my exhasut leak at the manifold sounds great now and just wondering what is causing my headlights to blow out while accelerating  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Enthusiast | Posts: 643 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 10/29/11
10:08 AM

ben...  lets start with the simple and cheep stuff...

do you have a digital volt meter... if you don't.. they can be had for 7 bucks to 25 bucks..

a lot of parts stores have these from innova for about 16 bucks..



harbor freight stores have these for about 20 bucks

Image 17217

either will last you for decades..


next.... i would take a digital volt meter...

set it to 20 volts DC scale...

start the engine and turn on the headlights..

1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts.  14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..

3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..

4. test between the Engine block and the body..  0.02 volts is expected.

if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...


this test takes about 2 minutes...

post your results by test number..

if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the display...

you have a bad ground between those parts..



why do this test....   bad grounds will stop any new car in its tracks...

why... electrons flow from Negative to positive...  if you loose a ground.. or it becomes intermittent..  you won't have any power for that circuit...  just like a table light when the plug falls part way out of the wall...  the light will go out..

also i have fixed a LOT of cars lately with that  2 minute test... some hot water and a stainless steel wire toothbrush ...

finding the ground connections.. removing them from where they are bolted down after counting how many wires are on each one..   wire brushing both sides of the ring terminals...   wire brushing the back side of the nut.. wire brushing the mounting pad...  washing with HOT water..  

putting them back on.. and counting to verify the number of wires is the same...

the verifying with the same test again...


if you have a bad ground wire... the alternator could be overcharging when the engine revs up...  burning out all the bulbs that are on...


do the test above.. its easy...

post results by number...  

slantsixben slantsixben
User | Posts: 67 | Joined: 04/11
Posted: 12/04/11
03:53 PM

thanks huge help sry for not coming on for a while but i was fixing the exhaust manifold leak and i fixed that and i found out that there is one ground for both the headlights and the wire was connected to flaking rust so i put a new ground wire and ran it to the negative battery post  

slantsixben slantsixben
User | Posts: 67 | Joined: 04/11
Posted: 04/19/12
02:48 PM

well if my alternator is overcharging what should i do does that mean that i have a amperage to high for the vehicle  

slantsixben slantsixben
User | Posts: 67 | Joined: 04/11
Posted: 04/19/12
02:50 PM

i also found that the ground wire was to a super rusty piece of metal and the wire was rusted so i regrounded it to the negative post of the battery the lights still surge i think it might be the voltage regulator or alternator which were both replaced what kind of electrical problem do you think that could be  

slantsixben slantsixben
User | Posts: 67 | Joined: 04/11
Posted: 04/19/12
02:55 PM

could the connectors be the problem causing a short circuit  

waynep71222 waynep71222
User | Posts: 246 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/19/12
05:10 PM

ben... copy the text for the test 1. 2. 3 . 4 above..

run the test

post results..

start the engine and turn on the headlights..

1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts.  14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

1. ________________    14.1 to 14.6

2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..


2.  _______________     0.02 to 0.04 volts DC.

3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..

3.  _______________     0.02 volts DC

4. test between the Engine block and the body..  0.02 volts is expected

4. ________________   0.02  volts DC.



if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...  

slantsixben slantsixben
User | Posts: 67 | Joined: 04/11
Posted: 08/12/12
09:00 AM

I thnk i no whats wrong since my headlights and tail lights blow its a voltage spike caused by a bad ground on my voltage regulator  

slantsixben slantsixben
User | Posts: 67 | Joined: 04/11
Posted: 10/30/13
06:03 PM

i literally just figured it out i replace original headlight connectors with new ones also put a new ballast resistor and went through all the wiring again must have  been a short at the connector or something because it is fixed now. now im trying to figure out how to find a window wiper switch i can use because the windsheild wipers dont work  

wayne712222 wayne712222
User | Posts: 121 | Joined: 10/13
Posted: 10/30/13
09:31 PM

well.. according to the wiring diagram i have for a 66 valiant...


pink wire to the wiper switch.. comes from the far RIGHT FUSE of six fuses..

66Valientwiperswitch Zps1e2da125