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Camshaft suggestions

  
Mopar Muscle
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Camshaft suggestions

 
68CoronetRT4spd 68CoronetRT4spd
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 12/07/11
10:30 AM

I am building this motor for my 68 Coronet RT and want a high performance street motor.  Weekend warrior type build that might see 1 or 2 trips down the track.
Here's what I have so far:
440 block bored .040" machined for zero deck
Stock forged crankshaft, 3.75 stroke, ground 10/10
Flat top forged pistons (older TRW 10:1 with less than 2000 miles since last build)
915 heads with 2.14 intake, 1.81 exhaust valves, hardened seats, 74 cc, bowls blended
.039 Felpro head gasket (looking to achieve quench with zero deck)
440 Performer dual plane manifold, gasket matched
CAT 1.6 aluminum roller rockers
870 Holly Street Avenger Carburetor
MSD 6al ignition
Mopar electronic distributor
2 1/2" dual exhaust out the back through Thrush Turbo mufflers
3:54 Dana 60
18 spline A833 4speed
Tire height will be 28-29"

I need to settle on the following items and would appreciate suggestions and comments before I purchase:
1. Camshaft (considering Hughes or possibly Comp Cams at this point but not sure.)
2. Headers (can't afford TTI so was looking at Hooker with 1 7/8" primaries)
3. Clutch and pressure plate (11" 18 spline)
4. Pushrods

Thanks for your help on this.  
Acts 16:31

drmopar drmopar
Guru | Posts: 1445 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 12/07/11
12:58 PM

Sounds like a nice ride.
I would finish with the following items.
1. CL21-227 competition hydraulic cam. Simply the best street cam out there.
2. Headers, Headman Ceramics, 1 3/4 part number 78036. Simply the best fitting  
headers out there.
3. Pushrods. P4529560 Mopar performance.
4. Clutch?? Someone else will have to help you with this one.
5. Pypes sells a nice fitting x-pipe at summit or jegs. I would recommend the summit racing turbo mufflers, they have a 17"/19" overall body and are much less restrictive than the other turbo mufflers.
Stay away from Hughes, they have gone way down hill this past yr for customer service and returns.
Make sure you follow the instructions on how to break in a hydraulic cam. I would recommend running some type of additive like Redline or Lucas zinc additive all the time to protect your new hydraulic cam.
Go with a 28" tire, the 3.55 will keep the revs. down on the highway.

 Best of luck Doc Cool  

68CoronetRT4spd 68CoronetRT4spd
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 12/07/11
09:22 PM

Thanks for the detailed reply.
That cam has almost the same specs as the one Hughes recommended except the Hughes cam had .016" more intake lift and .023" more exhaust lift.
I will go with the Comp Cam as you suggest.  
Acts 16:31

68CoronetRT4spd 68CoronetRT4spd
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 12/08/11
01:26 PM

Another related question to this build.
I have to lower the compression ratio some but do not want to lose the quench.  My thoughts are to leave the piston .005" in hole and have 8cc of valve relief machined into the flat top pistons.  This will lower it from 11.98:1 to 10.89:1 however my quench will now be at .044" instead of my sought after .039".  Will this still provide the quench benefits?
Elevation here is 4400 feet above sea level.  
Acts 16:31

Garys69RR Garys69RR
User | Posts: 99 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 03/02/12
09:45 PM

Are you having your heads cc d? Those heads from the factory are usually around 78 to 80. Although fact specs say 73 cc. I like a tight quench of .035 to .040. Much more than .050 you really begin to lose the benefits.  

451Mopar 451Mopar
User | Posts: 220 | Joined: 07/10
Posted: 03/03/12
06:55 PM

The Hughes, Comp XE HL, or Lunati Voodo cams are good choices.  make sure to use compatable valve springs and break-in procedures using good break-in oil and/or additive.  Most of the 1-7/8" headers fit good, no so for 2" headers.
I would order custom length pushrods, after measuring the required length with an adjustable pushrod.  correct pushrod length is important for proper oiling of the the pushrod end.  Either smith brothers or manton pushrods.
I have not used many different clutches, but the centerforce is easer on the knees than the old borg and beck type that came in my car.  

Budnicks Budnicks
Guru | Posts: 1497 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 03/06/12
12:42 PM

his is kind of an old post but, in the clutch area I have used with decent success Zoom, McLeod, Shaffer, Center Force II & CF Dual friction {ladder is the best of the 2 w/softest peddle w/most clamping force}, Ram, Hays, 10.5"-11" 23-spline or 18-spline disc.s depending on what size/type bell-housing/trans your using, also make sure the flywheel & clutch is balanced,cleaned & surfaced properly, the diaphragm style clutches have a softer peddle generally than the, 3 finger Borge/Warner style clutches, use a heavy flywheel for heavy car 3000+#'s & lighter flywheel for lighter cars below 2800#'s, usually works pretty well... Happy Moparing  
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck  "Budnicks"