bought new procomp with the circuit board in it and suppose to be a plug and go dist. installed it tdc plugs are in the right order, most ign. wires are 10.5v so i ran gator clip wires from battery to it 12.6v. No Fire... benched tested it in a vice, it was arcing like crazy, so its hot. installed not getting enough spark to plugs, pulled #1 plug wire off put an extra plug in and grounded it, had a real light spark then nothing, bug is turning, everything looks hooked up right, losing my mind here! just wanted to get rid of the points ignition system, but starting to doubt......any ideas???~Bob
73dartswinger welcome to the MMM forum. -"I'm not familiar with ProComp HEI dist.", but dose it still get the power from after the original ballast resister? that could explain the low voltage, you -"could maybe"- need to bypass the ballast resister on the feed wire. (just a guess, check instructions & call them 1st) I would call them & double check all your wiring diagram & connections before you try anything. Good luck. Budnicks
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck "Budnicks"
how is the ground connection to the block... did you paint both sides of the distributer hold down clamp????why?? the spark is created in the coil... down across the rotor... jumps the tip to the cap terminals.. down the wire to the plug.. jumps the spark plug gap... through the head to the block and then to the distributer hold down clamp.. the housing and back to the module ground... other racers have started grounding both heads to the distributer housing directly with a 3 ring terminal cable..right head.. distributer in the middle left head .. 0------0-------0 as a test for ground.. you could use a conventional battery jumper cable.. hook it to the negative battery cable and then to the distributer housing...HEI distributers also need full battery voltage to operate properly..so.. are you getting full battery voltage to the HEI/bat terminal on the cap... not the reduced voltage from the ballast resistor... some years also use a multi pin starter relay with one corner terminal marked BAL... that is the ignition resistor bypass circuit. so it sends power while cranking directly from the starter relay to the coil side of the ballast resistor... make it easy to start...use a test light into the HEI bat connector while trying to start...
the installation instructions from the procomp site..HIGH PERFORMANCE DISTRIBUTORINSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS(Read installations before installation)Procomp PC6000 HEI Distributors are a 1-wire hook up, designed to eliminates all the clutter.NOTE: Procomp distributors can be used with roller cams.Procomp also manufacture bronze gears which are specifically designed for roller cams.Step 1 – Unpack the distributor carefully and inspect it for possible shipping damage. Inspect again after removing the cap.Step 2 – If the distributor to be replaced has not already been removed from the engine, remove its cap. Do not remove the plug wires at this time. Crank the engine slowly until the rotor blade aims at a fixed point on the engine or firewall. Note this point for future reference.Step 3 – Find the connector in the wiring from the distributor to the ignition switch, and unplug it.Step 4 – Loosen and remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp. Lift the old distributor out. If the engine had been running within the past few minutes, the distributor housing may be hot and coated with hot engine oil. Wrap a shop towel around the distributor to avoid burning your hands and dripping oil.Step 5 – Lower the new distributor into position. The rotor should be aimed at the same fixed point as was the rotor of the old distributor, and the vacuum canister aligned with the reference mark. After the new distributor has been lowered into place, you may find that it hasn’t seated firmly against the support boss. This indicates that the lower end of the distributor shaft is not properly aligned with the oil pump drive rod. Do not attempt to force the distributor into position.Step 6 – With the distributor properly seated, tighten the hold-down bolt just enough so that the distributor is held in place, but can still be rotated with a little effort. Again, make sure that the vacuum canister is aligned with the reference mark.Step 7 – After all wires have been transferred, verify that the wire in the terminal post that is aligned with the rotor leads to number one cylinder. If you are unsure of cylinder number position or firing order, this information can be found in the service manual that covers your particular engine. Put on the distributor cap.Step 8 – Reconnect the wiring leading from the distributor from the ignition switch 12v. This is a simple 1 wire hook up.Step 9 – Connect a timing light. Start the engine and allow it to warm up sufficiently to idle smoothly. It may be necessary to rotate the distributor (either clockwise or counter-clockwise) before a smooth idle can be achieved. If the engine will not idle smoothly, the firing order may be incorrect or the rotor may not have been properly aligned during installation. Consult a service manual for corrective procedures.Step 10 – Consult the appropriate service manual to determine the factory-recommended initial timing and idle speed. Set initial spark timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged. Advancing timing two to four degrees from the factory setting beyond factory specifications may result in detonation, which can cause engine damage. Listen carefully – if you hear the engine knocking or pinging, retard initial timing as required to eliminate it.
Save yourself some headache, send it back and buy a MSD or Mallory.
Make sure that the power wire to the distributor is sending at least 12 volts to the distributor. If you are juicing teh distributor through the resistor, it won't work right.
--------------------Some people are like Slinkys; they're not very useful, but fun to watch when pushed down the stairs.