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1973 400

  
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1973 400

 
lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/04/10
04:33 PM

I have a 1973 dodge 400 with a cast crank I am working on, it was recently overhauled before the car went down 30 years ago.  I was taking it apart and the oil was still clear nothing was burnt on in the valve train, heck the gaskets were still in decent shape when I pulled them.  Anything I should look out for with a 400 and how are they performance wise and such?  For now I will be keeping it stock, just redoing all the gaskets, etc and putting a 4-bbl intake on and getting rid of that choking 2-bbl that it came with!!! lol

Cheers,
Lee  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Enthusiast | Posts: 643 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 12/04/10
10:50 PM

i vaguely recall an article or two... on 400 mopar buildups..   and some where people swapped in a 440 or longer crank.. but its been a while...  came out with 460 ci or something like that..

could have been in HR, CC or PHR engine masters  i just don't recall..

there are probably some here at MMM...

there was a big 383 manifold test over in CC a few years back.. that might help for your intake issues...



hmmm....  i wonder.. if they have custom M&M candies at the mopar muscle magazine production offices.. that have MMM on them...

what do you know.. there are a few...

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0010_how_to_install_cams_heads_and_induction/index.html


http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0711_mopar_383/index.html


http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0812_1100_hp_pump_gas_mopar_b_motor/index.html



http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0712_mopar_intake_manifold_comparo/index.html


look for additional articles in the right frame... including part 2 of the low deck intake test...

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0605_mopar_performance_383_stroker_engine/index.html


http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0210_porting_383_440_aluminum_replacement_heads/index.html


http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0209_383_engine_restore/index.html


http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0209_upgrading_the_383_magnum_avs_carb/index.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0208_chrysler_383_engine_buildup_from_the_bottom_up/index.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0112_rebuilt_resto_stock_383/index.html  

lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/04/10
11:03 PM

Yeah I found by accident an article by the guys here doing a 10sec car using a 400 with a factory 440 forged crank, turned it into a 451!  I bookmarked it for future ref  

Budnicks Budnicks
Guru | Posts: 1497 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 12/05/10
01:32 PM

Ismircic the Edelbrock Performer RPM duel plane is a good choise for intake on 383 & if it's a stock engine the 4bbl 770cfm vac. sec. elect. choke Holley Street Avenger is a good combo, the hood clearance could be an issue depending on what it's going in, you can use a drop base air cleaner to get arround that problem. I have used this combo on several 383's it works well & verry tuneable if future performance mods are planed.  Budnicks  
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck  "Budnicks"

lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/05/10
01:37 PM

Ok thanks will look into that combo, right now I was looking at the Performer 383 intake kit (jegs part number 350-2186k)with a Performer 750 cfm carb.

PS

Oh, it is Lsmircic, lowercase "L"  no worries though, I get that a lot Smile  

Budnicks Budnicks
Guru | Posts: 1497 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 12/05/10
02:10 PM

lsmircic I think I got it right the performers are ok but the holley is better in my oppinion I have run both & preffer the holley if you need a like new #1411 perf. 4bbl 750cfm w/elect. choke I have 1 for sale $150+ shipping. PM me with contact info. click on Budnicks in blue leave me a number or a e-mail address. the parts are in Sonora Ca. 95370   Budnicks  
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck  "Budnicks"

lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/05/10
02:15 PM

I will probably go with the holley its cheaper at the local parts store than the Edelbrock, I have used their truck avengers in a CJ-7 buggy project 5 years ago.  

Budnicks Budnicks
Guru | Posts: 1497 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 12/05/10
02:24 PM

Good choise I realy preffer the holley.  Budnicks  
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck  "Budnicks"

lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/05/10
03:11 PM

I do plan on making this a 456 stroker in the next few years, I picked up a 440 crank from an auto part swap meet a few days ago to start.  Going to get the parts together for both the engine and the rest of the drivetrain before I do it though.  I Would hate to have a monster engine sitting there and it blows up the non-D60 rear end on night one at the local track lol!

Cheers  

Budnicks Budnicks
Guru | Posts: 1497 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 12/05/10
05:44 PM

lsmircic If you have a 8.750" rear it will hold up just fine. I went mid 9's at 135+ in a 3300lb car & have gone faster than that even mid 8's in a 2900lb car at 160+ with a 8.750" if you put the proper parts, back support & axles in them. When I started going faster than that I switch to a 9.750" Dana-60 w/35 spline axles & a spool. If it's a 8.250" by all meens change it out. The 440 crank in the 400 is a good combo but there are specific machine work you have to do I think it's cheaper to buy a crank already done, you have to reduce the counter weights diam. by .250" & grind the main journals down for the 400 block & clearance for rods in block (depending on what rods used) there are some good articles on this in the tech. section. Budnicks  
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck  "Budnicks"

lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/05/10
06:15 PM

That is good to know about the 8.75 axle, will look into trussing and beefing it up then.  Yeah it was this article http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0703_barracuda_engine_build/index.html
That is what gave me the idea for the 440/400 combo.  Napa here will work over the crank completely grind, polish, balance, etc for about 250.  Still have not looked at rods yet, doing this little by little  

Budnicks Budnicks
Guru | Posts: 1497 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 12/05/10
07:32 PM

Thats not bad price dose that include turning down the counter weights also?  Budnicks  
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck  "Budnicks"

lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/05/10
07:50 PM

No, but according to that article you just had to file down the block a bit in the webbing or did I miss something?  

Budnicks Budnicks
Guru | Posts: 1497 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 12/05/10
08:38 PM

I could be wrong but all of the strokers I've done had to remove .125" min. thats .250" total min. in diam. maybee this is'nt ness. in a 400 block but was always done in a 383 w/440 or other stroker cranks. What I have read & have done is in a 383-400 B-block crank Diam. is 7.12" & in a 413-440 RB-block 7.48" Diam. thats accualy .360" off diam.= 0.180" off I think the .125" will clear everything. I don't know maybee some else that has more experiance with the machine work aspect could put some light on the subject.  Budnicks  
"Fill Your Library Before You Fill Your Garage" Good Luck  "Budnicks"

lsmircic lsmircic
New User | Posts: 19 | Joined: 10/10
Posted: 12/05/10
08:43 PM

I will get a price for that as well, you could very well be right and I missed something in the article.
Appreciate the help you have given.  

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