main problem with the 383 is the main saddle webbing aroung the mains, its only around .290  thick on average, this can be helped with a girdle, main studs and aftermarket aluminum or steel caps, if you race it I would reccomend a 1/2 fill of block fill to bottom of freeze plug, if you plan to run it on the street pass on the block fill.this post is about making the engine last.great engine but for max life and hp above would be reccomended for longetivity  

hot.... why would you use a shorter rod and a heavy 1000 gram piston on the 400? I think you meant a longer rod? 6.76 center to center? less internal weight means faster rev, faster ride and better longetivity as the assembly is not pushing as heavy a rotating mass.  

451 based 400 has a rod ratio of 1.80. hard to beat that and part for part would eat a 440 0.55 over 451 for lunch as the internals are much lighter,and the 400 block is stronger than any other production block made  

Don't listen to Rodknock7043 he's clueless on this 1.
I looked him up on the net and came up w/moparchat were he was banned for being him self=
a   D-bag used by San francisco bath house regulars! ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ah lol.  

they make a stroker kit for the 383 that uses a 5.35 length rod and makes 496 or 499 cubic inches, gotta be nice 340,your meaner than me and thats extremely bad, heh  

if you did the above mentioned items minus the block filler the skies the limit on hp.  

650 hp street 383 would be nice and would rev like a small block .  

Ahh where did bob diamond go, ya know, hotrod7043? I want to hear more about chevy rod angles and such....  

I wanna see your ride and tell me your engine combination 3404. mopar1962@comcast.net  

Actually I have 2.
A 344ci 10.8, ported xheads w/flow #'s , solid .528 w/1.6 full roller=.533 after lash, 830cfm annular holley +weiand single, headers,MSD ignition, all the oil baffle crap, 8qt , stock steel crank & rods w/arp =7200RPM w/4.10 and it's somewhere  around 450-470HP
Thats what I daily drive 13-25miles a day.

Then there's my back up.
410 Stroker, 10.8, w2 ported, .557 solid w/1.6, headers, 850cfm holley, 8qt, baffled/trayed ect, ........520-540HP just a guess I'm having it dyno'd soon so will c.

This isn't a/nor was it supposed to be a race car, just a fun car.  

mines fun too, now send some pics, running a 14.5 volt race constant regulator is a joke on the street is that the wiring harness smoking? dont ya know how to calculate hp from trap speed? hi 11s ,wow  

mike, you would actually run a shorter piston and a longer rod for the 451 or the 474 if you want to rev, doing this decreases the internal rotating mass and makes a longer lasting engine as the internals are lighter, better shift fast if ya ever run wide street tires or have a rev limiter with either combo cause that 474 will rev like a 2 cycle engine. cheech and chong up in smoke real fast and them revs come up super fast.I like the 451 better as it has the 1.80 rod ratio  

sounds like ya wasted your money on the 1.6s if thats all the extra lift your getting 340  

474 with the chevy pin but mopar width rods are available now from manley or others meaning correct rod side clearance as the chevy rods are thinner and last time I checked a 474 with chevy rods and pins it had like .070 rod side clearance which aint a bad think but a little tighter tolerance would make less oil flying around and less slop on the rods  

340, in no way ,am I putting down your car as they both sound like nice rides but remember I got shot in the head and have some minor brain damage. the last engine I built was a 454 chevy and I have a tendency to forget things but dont put me down on my knowledge as I build all sorts of engines. likewise, I wont put you down anymore. lets just bury the hatchet and forget the my balls are bigger than yours attitudes we have and get along. still would love to see your rides and ill show you mine as I like all mopars or anything for that matter thats fast.on a funny note, the guy with the 454 didnt want an alternator and said he could do it himself. he called stating he keeps throwing the wide gatorback belt so I went over and checked it out. he was using a straightedge and lining his crank pulley from the outside of the pulley to the outside of the alternator pulley. it was minor as it only threw the belt at around 6800 rpm and before throwing it it would cut the belt thinner and thinner with each throw of the belt ,as it was riding the outer edge of the pulley in the higher rpm band.I had to fab the upper and lower alternator brackets making it a passenger side lo mount alt. because he was running a belt drive electric waterpump. I even checked out what he did and the alignment was perfect, but after thinking a minute and after he started the car up the belt was hitting the bracketry on the electric waterpump hence the low mount alternator brackets. it was just a single wire setup on the alternator. ya cant use the lipped outside of the crank pulley and get proper alighment as it needed to be checked at the   center point of crank pulley and alternator pulley,haha, ok? I ended up after checking the alternator squared with the pulley that I would need to shim the crank pulley  out as there was no way to adjust the alternator pulley without cocking it. so I bought a set of pulley spacershims and spaced the crank pulley out 3/16s of an inch making the belt ride directly in the center of both the crank and alternator pulleys and using 1/4 inch longer grade 8 bolts and loctite to allow for the extra spacing. worked well, this guy turns that old 454 to 7500 rpm with the belt on .im surprised he hasnt blown the engine up but its been 8 months and all appears good.after looking in the jegs catalog, for 50 bux more the guy could have bought a simple drivers side bolt on alternator kit and the alignment would have been perfect, hahahahaha we all make mistakes and this was a good one.