Help! I have been building my 72 duster for the past four years and finally have it running. My problem is what i should or should not be expecting. The current engine is a 68 340 that is block filled,fully studded and swings a scat 4 inch forged stroker crank,eagle H beam rods,12.5 to 1 Wiseco forged pistons,W-5 cylinder heads(no port work)with 58 cc chambers,Harland Sharp 1.5 rockers,M1 intake,Holley 850 mech secondary carb,Aeromotive fuel pump,Mazerrie electric water pump,MSD pro billet distributor and MSD 6AL. The cam is a Comp Cam's solid with 609/616lift,284/262@50 and a 108 lobe center.I had the cam ground for 1.6 rockers,but ended up with 1.5's. Those are the spec's for the 1.6's. I'm running 1/2 inch fuel line with a Holley regulator set at 8psi. The exhaust system consist of TTI 1-7/8 headers with 3 inch flowmasters. The chassis has sub frame connectors,8 point cage,super stock springs,adjustable pinion snubber,6 cylinder torsion bars,90/10 drag shocks and mopar rear drag shocks. The rear has a suregrip with 4.30's. I'm running 28x 10.5 M/T Sportsmans for rubber. The car weighs in right at 2900 lbs with driver. At Irwindale,my best time was a 7.42 @ 96mph. 60 ft was 1.74. Should this car be faster or am i expecting too much?  What type of horsepower is this combo capable of making if tuned right?  The biggest problem at this time is my transmission is in the shop so I borrowed a friends 727 with a stock converter instead of the 4000 stall I have for it.  Would that make a huge difference in getting the time lower? Also is that carb too small for it?  I have 80 jets in front and back.  At the launch it feels like the springs are not lifting the back of the car, as it hooks but not real hard. Then at around 3500 it comes alive and pulls clean to the top end.  I shift at 6800 because I'm not sure where to rev it to and nobody else can seem to tell me.  What should I leave at and what should I shift at?  Also, what type of breather setup should I be using?  Right now I just have 2 twist on breathers.  At this time I"m trying to round up some slicks because it felt as if the tires were not getting bite down the whole track.  My goal was to have a 10 second street/strip car without nitrous and its falling a little short.  I would run nitrous to get there but I'm afraid the motor might not be able to handle the extra horsepower of a 150 shot.  I know this has to be one of the longest questions you've received but there really aren't any Mopar builders around here, and I'm alone in a sea of Fords and Chevys.  The duster is holding its own, but I feel with all the time and money I've spent it should run better.  The machine work was flawless and a very good friend and I spent countless hours carefully building it.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as this is my first effort at trying to build a somewhat radical motor. Am i unrealistic to expect a 10 second time slip? And if so what should be my next step towards one? Thank you for your time,                                                       Preston  

your cam should be good up in the 7000 7200 range maybe try a trans brake them things are awsome get her up around 5500 and pop the button and sky you will see  

Your mph indicates the car should run lower in the 7's in the eighth. The biggest thing I see wrong with your combo is the converter, next would be the cam. A true drag car needs a way looser converter than you're running, like an 8 or 9 inch that flashes around 5,000 rpm. this will greatly improve your 60 ft times and thereby your *** will improve as well.

Secondly, I'd consider a bigger cam or going with the 1.6 rockers.

Hope this helps.  

5000 with that combo is too much if you street drive the car. I would run a 4000 max converter with this combo and a bigger carb.good hd trans cooler for the brake also a good idea. I think 5k too much overall for that combo  

71 dart .060 over, hughes .695 roller,stage 6 heads M-1 single plane with oil splash shield,srp pistons . with the aluminum heads probably around 11.5 to 1 compression.10.50 dominator. stainless rocker shafts sharp rollers .dedenbear delay box, trans brake, linelock 8 3/4 rear with 4.30 gear.Havnt been able to figure out this delay box yet,haha, footbraking it I made 2 passes at 1700 rpm and netted a 10.82 at 125 and a 10.71 at 128  

you should be running in the 6s area why so much intake duration than exhaust at .050? yeah that 4000 converters gonna change thinge bigtime, weird cam your using imo  

I reccomend using the comp .cam .660 roller,good cam, and is streetable and going to a 4500 converter,if ya use a transbrake launching at 5k rpm gonna bust something and you dam well better shift fast, I run a ta brake and valve body and set the dedenbear 4 way box to 1.25 and launch at 2500 rpm just as the 3rd yellow lights I been 9.89 in this car with unbraced 8 3/4 and I got lucky launching at 4300 rpm by not breaking anything but tech booted me for the night so now I run around 10.40s 10.50s and take it easy on it as its a 440  

I drill and weld a 5/8 male end fitting to front of each valve cover then do the same to the header collectors, I then carefully route hoses so they dont get burnt to each fitting from head to header,dont recall who makes it but its like a 5 inch adapter tube you use on collectors so your rubber hoses dont burn, this dispels all condensation faster than heating the engine as the headers get hot faster,aluminum and chrome spell condensation which is natural but my way eliminates it alltogether with no water in the oil ever.  

1/2 inch lines too much for a single pump to handle use holly blue stripe and a good carter mechanical pump in tandem, term is physics  

I dont understand the duration #s. the intake normally has less duration at.050 than the exhaust.hope you just typed a mistake on the .050 numbers.  

no breathers,you should be running a drilled fitting in front of both valve covers,around 5/8 fitting for a hose attachment, weld them on. now drill header 1 ft from end of connector and weld on the same fittings as valve covers. route a hd braided line from left valve cover to left collector, you can use a hose clamp if desired,do the same to the right side and your engine will have great scavenging effects and will also burn up condensation and fuel before it goes into the oil pan.chrome ,and aluminum condensate a lot at lower temps but with the header hookup the headers warm faster than the engine does therefore reducing condensation and fuel in the oil. hope this helps,its not hard to do and any breather ive ever used just blows off .  

1 foot from end of collector not connector, sorry  

I personally think your cam grinder screwed up your cam  

Comp cams didnt srew it up, also cams arent Ground for 1.5or 1.6 rockers.  

Plenty of mopar builders out there dli, Kieth black,.