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1965 C-body headers?
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Posted: 10/24/05 01:22 AM
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I just picked up a big block '65 Sport Fury. I will be installing a 440. I have the engine mounts sorted out, and will be using a 727 with a gear vendors unit. I have power steering.
Does anybody know what headers will work without body work? I know that TTI makes a set, and I know that Hedman makes a "shorty" part number 78070. Will that fit? I plan on going 2.5" duals out the back.
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Posted: 06/12/06 08:54 AM
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Hi
to answer your question I would use those shortys you referred to because most C- body headers are the same thing as B-body headers and you would have to dent them to fit them around the power steering
but usually C-body headers are expensive so pop the extra 100 bucks and get those shortys and ceramic coat them
PS. Way to go on the sport fury mann its people like you that keep the C-body alive.
Right on!
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Posted: 06/27/06 09:08 PM
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Yes but denting the header to make it fit is pretty common practice especialy with long tubes, you may have to modify your shift linkage. summit lists a few long tubes for your application but they are pretty expensive. The short tube headers may be easier to fit into the engine compartment. The choice is ultimately up to you.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=Headers&N=4294908078+4294924707+115+4294840062&Ntk=KeywordSearch
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Posted: 06/28/06 06:45 AM
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Man arent we just the C body guru's
yea I hated that I had to bend my ceramic coated headers on my 68 fury 3 with a 383 column shift but then I put them on my sport fury with a console and they fit fine without bending
all in all switch to a console and run those longtubes make your C body roar because those shortys cost horsepower and thats something we dont want. after all we are trying to move like 4000 pounds my sport fury 68' is running 400 horse and that still isnt enough
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Posted: 04/16/08 02:34 PM
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know a guy who has a 65 sport fury.not a 383 but its wide like a poly and it has a steel crank. the valve covers are weird also as instead of the 2 bolts holding the tops on the poly 318s these have 2 holes on top near center of covers but the 2 holes on the bottom seem to be raised.the valvecovers are very old aftermarket hexhead style to take just the tops off and leave the rest of the valve cover on, perfect for adjusting adjustable rockers, think their finned hd aluminum edelbrocks but I have never seen this type on any engine before .anyone have an idea of what this thing is?looks like a wide block poly or 383 but never seen a 383 with 4 bolt covers and the bottom 2 hexhead valve cover bolts raised almost to the top of the valvecover,im stumped on this one, its a rustbucket but has real nice black front buckets but the chrome around them is a lil dinged up, also has a decent shape center console but needs new woodgrain which is easy to find these days. any ideas, anyone?????wants 400 bux for the whole car
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mopar3762
Enthusiast
| Posts: 606
| Joined: 04/08
Posted: 05/09/08 12:33 PM
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according to RB the 65 sport fury is a B body.Im an A body guy just passing the word......
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mopar3762
Enthusiast
| Posts: 606
| Joined: 04/08
Posted: 05/09/08 12:34 PM
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we need more questions ,lets see if this fires this forum up again.haha
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Posted: 07/12/08 04:14 PM
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"according to RB the 65 sport fury is a B body." It is not a B body, that's for sure. I have owned a 1964, which is a B-Body. I now own a 1965 Sport Fury. There is a BIIIIG difference in body size. I'm not sure who/what RB is, but you may want to check out what he/it says about the 1966 Fury. The 1965 & 1966 share the same body size (some sheet metal) and undercarriage. The Fury did, however, seem to grow in size over the years. In addition, it is amazing at how many people assume that since in 1964 the Fury & Belvedere were the same body, that they would continue to share the body size similarity; however, they did not.
http://www.allpar.com/model/fury.html
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Posted: 07/12/08 09:12 PM
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Hi, Yes, TTI makes a very nice piece for your C-Body. They also have mandrel-bent full exhaust systems from collector to tail in both 2-1/2" and 3". I would use these rather than the the Schumacher Tri-Ys or any of the shorties. The full length tubes will make more torque than a shorty design to get the big 'C' rolling, and while the Schumacher Tri-Y design would also make excellent torque, I feel the primary size before the step is a bit small for a stout 440.
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