I have installed headers on my 67 Dodge Coronet 500, 383.  The driver side rear exhaust port blows steam when the engine is running.  I have removed the header bolt and used a high temp thread sealer, but this did not solve the problem. 

Anybody have a solution for me.

David

whats it smell like?

could be a head bolt that passes thru a water port leaking, maybe a small head  gasket leak,cracked head ,bad valve seal,etc etc etc  

cracked guide would show up in your oil, naw  

Interesting, chevy's are the ones with the head bolts passing into water.
Too Bad For U, we all know now.
Throw some alumiseal seal in it, It's just the end bolts at the header .  

RBOLIG, you have to be laughing right now.
I hope you read this, head bolts passing through water bit. ha ha
Honestly though if you stepped in more often to correct some these miss conceptions
It probably wouldn't get so heated, but wait at the rate this guy posts you'll have to make a full time job of it! ha ha  

wow, thats 1.5 times you bested me haha,first off check for water in the oil or on the dipstick or the oil cap.between deck on head from #2 and 4 and between 6 and 8 is mighty thin from head bolts to water jacket so a cracked jacket leaking into head bolt and into upper head is quite possible along with a cracked bore with a 35 plus year old block or a small leak in the head gasket,have it pressure tested first off, maybe your head bolts need to be retorqued? If you used gasket sealer on the header bolts already these could be a possible cause.you may well have a cracked waterjacket. your header bolts have good threads,properly torqued? nice and tight? .does the header stop smoking after its warmed up? if so, do you have chrome valve covers and is your pcv operating properly? chrome creates condensation and until engine warms this condensation turns to drops of water that may go into your exhaust system and your oil,let us know the outcome,build quite a few engines 340 so I get a lil mixed up sometimes.no alternator on an early mopar had internal regulator, its all in the wiring,dont reccomend the constant voltage regulator using any M.P. ignition. racing ,yes street no.its all in your ballast resistor, coil and wiring diagram your using,personally I would just find the right regulator plug on a street car and use the M.P muscle car regulator and switch your wiring to this application.yes there are 4 single ballast resisters ,which to use depends on the coil,ok,earlier units used the dual ballast resistor. in your case you should be running the chrome box with a single ballast resistor.feel better? I build a lot of different make engines and never said I was a know it all.you assummed. any M.P. distributor kit ive used from 67 to 73 came as a complete kit minus regulator.its all in the wiring. I would never run the constant regulator on anything but a race car as voltage varies on a street car and too much juice to the wiring can cause a fire or cause other gremlins to appear. so try being a lil nicer and not a know it all type yourself., as rodney king said, cant we awll get along? to each their own..... DM, sure hope your leaking a lil water into the headers or have a bad pcv valve,if its the pvc I have a good fix instead of replacing that sucker. take care  

3404 .lets hear the combo your running on the street, look at mine ,the 71 dart for sale,with a 4.88 gear and a 4000 launch I went 9.83. you?  

all done by me ,$12000 total investment , my email address is mopar1962@ comcast.net if ya want some pictures, send some of your ride also please.  

your like a joker in a card game 3404, funny lookin but normally thrown out of the deck. you dont know me, what I been through, my life at present. nor do I wish to discuss it with you, or anything else for that matter.  

ya find out the trouble dm?  

If the heads are ported extensively I've seen them crack from the exhaust port into a water jacket, otherwise it's the header bolts. If the threads are worn in the heads or the bolt, water will find a way by. Also, sealing the header bolts is good, I use red rtv, but you have to re-tighten the headers not to blow gaskets, this could break the seal.

Usually sealing the header bolts works, even after re-tightening, but I have had to run block seal through the cooling system occasionally to seal the header bolts.  

so, ya rule out a slight head gasket leak bad?small leak sometimes wont show in the oil. water jackets look mighty close to the head bolts to me. sure ya retighten after warming the engine up but like ya said ya then break rtv seal.time will tell but the worn or stripped bolt will leak for sure. give ya that  

use the aluminum coated header gaskets, they work well  

now reply back so I have someone to type to,heh,cripes, im on every post here almost. 2 weeks and ill be looking forward to working again, I stay in shape bro, but up until 5 years ago I when I cranked 380 on the bench the side of my head and ear would squirt out blood from the pressure, got beyond that and kept at it. you give me much more sas and ill fillet ya like a fish,seriously, been fun here and I thank ya both letting me back in as you know my true aka,it helped pass some time,yall are good guys,I appreciate it,but ya still got me for 2 weeks so make up some fing questions I can reply to as were fresh out,hahaha take care guys.