My 68 dart just started doing this. After the car sits for a while and when I start the car the alt gauge is really charging and rises with more rpm. The dash and driving light are really bright too. After the car runs for 10-15 min everything goes back to normal and stays normal until the car sits. I don't have a alarm,stereo, or anything that can pull electricity when the mopar is turned off. I replaced the battery (cheap one) and it still does it. I read a bad alternator or regulator can pull power when car is off. Any ideas before i start replacing more parts ?I have a mopar performance orange ignition with the blue race only regulator.Thanks dale
got a digital volt meter?????set it to 20 volts dc.... measure from the negative battery to the engine block with the engine running... should read less than 0.05 volts...dcmeasure from the negative battery post to the body... with the engine running and the head lights on.. should be less than 0.02 volts...you can also do this voltage drop test on the positive side... between the battery and the amp meter with long long leads..between the alternator output and the amp meter with the same long leads... remember... the motor is sitting on rubber motor mounts... the alternator puts out current through the case...,... there are usually extra ground wires from the engine to the body... ... are these loose....measure the charging voltage... with a fully charged battery...engine off... headlights on for one minute... then off... battery voltage readings..12.65 volts.=100%12.45 volts =50%12.25 volts = 25%with battery voltage over 12.6 volts...start the motor.. the charging system should be over 14.1 volts... and less than 14.5... i don't know what the blue regulator is going to *** if you expect max amount of power... from that alternator... you might want to bypass the amp meter... install a second volt meter... run a 8 gauge or 10 gauge wire directly to the battery or over to the starter solenoid if that has a large wire to the battery.... i have had to on some mopars... installed a cube relay to get full battery voltage to the voltage regulator... instead of the reduced voltage from the ignition wiring...pin 30 to the starter relay bat post... pin 87 to the hot lead into the voltage regulatorpin 86 to groundpin 85 to the old power lead for the regulator...the power feed for the regulator is enough to trip the relay.. the feed direct from the starter relay gives the voltage regulator proper signal voltage so it knows how much to put out...
I have heard mopar guys doing the bypass , but know one ever explained it . Thanks for the major help. The 10 gauge wire switch will make things run much better !!!thanks ,DALE
So just recap . After the bypass just run 10 gauge wire from alternator to starter relay (solenoid) ? I run it directly no disconnecting of exciting alt wires ? A mopar guy on aplar.com said best way to do the bypass amp meter, is to just remove one of the wires off the the gauge pole in the cluster and placing it on the other pole, meaning red and black wire are on one pole , disconnect and screw and tape them together? I'm getting a dual field voltage regulator too. Please let me know if I got this right . THANKS !!!DALE68 dart.
Waynep712 hit this one on the head! I ran into a similar situation on my 64 880, turned out corrosion at the firewall connector smoked my regulator and meter in the cluster.I replaced my regulator and I performed the bypass and all is well. Also with your dvom set it to mili amps and check for chassis draw just to be safe,19ma and down is acceptable. Good luck!Jason
voltage regulators are a chronic mopar headache.slam a hole in the firewall and relocate the voltage regulatoron the passenger side kick panel.You would not put your HDTV in the engine compartment so whybake your voltage reg?Use ur intake manifold to bake fish insteadtake care of ur voltage reg and be in mopar heaven