Does any aftermarket company make a harmonic balancer for a '69 340?

I need one that has the timing marks in the correct location. To match the '69 340 timing cover with the tab on the passenger side. For a forged crank, internal-balance engine. Every aftermarket balancer I've seen for 340s says the marks are 90 degrees off, and made for newer engines. Some companies don't seem to know what I'm talking about!  

call te damper doc 530-246-2984 located in Calif. He rebuilt mine, costs around 240.00 s/h extra  

No one makes that damper.  They are all for the left side timing marks.
I bought one and put timing tape on it.
Don  

But are they newer damper exactly 90 degrees off? I have one from Summit and it appears to be something other than 90 degrees. What do I have to do, find TDC with a piston stop and then re-mark the thing? This is rediculous.  

They are not exactly 90 deg off.  Yes, you have to find tdc with a piston stop, then mark the damper and install timing tape.  This is what I had to do.
Don  

Thank you Don. I thought I was going nuts when the stated "90 degrees off" just didn't look right at all. These companies need to revise their literature. They all say "90 degrees off" like it is as simple as puting a timing tape on and aligning 0 to the 90 mark on the damper, and you are good to go. Why do we have to find out this is NOT the case, and they don't seem to know/care about the issue?  

Ok I have almost the same problem.. Here's mine .. I have a 69 340 IN  a 72 challenger, but it has the drivers side cover on it!.. and when u set it to TDC #1 the zero mark lines up!, but when u go to time it it's nowhere to be seen! unless i dial my light to around 28* then i can get it to be close to the 5BTDC Mark.. whats going on here?..  

The balancer and the cover must match!  But your's (and mine) never will, because apparently nobody makes a correct balancer for a '69 340 anymore, no matter which side of the front cover the marks are on.  So what you need to do is find TDC on your engine using a piston stop on the #1 cylinder. Then mark the balancer accordingly. It is the only decent soultion I can come up with.  

Well thats what is weird with this one! with piston at TDC #1 the line on balancer lines up with the zero on cover, But When I go to time it i have to retard it so damn far it barely runs to get it even close to the 5*BTDC Mark on cover....  

How are you checking that the piston is at TDC?  

Rolling it over with my finger in hole till it pushes it out, then use a screw driver and slowly turn it over till piston dwells out at TDC...Mark is at zero, and  rotor is by number 1 terminal on cap.., but go to time it and its nowhere to be seen till i dial up light to around 25-30 degrees. Have checked dist the advance weights aren't stuck etc... Very baffeling!  

Sounds odd. You just never know what has been messed with on stuff that is 40 or more years old. Maybe the best way to time it is to keep advancing it until the motor pings under load, then back it off a few degrees. That's how we always did it in the "old days", and it worked pretty good!  

Yea Dunno?, This thing is all rebuilt tho... I hope he didnt use a cast crank set up in a 69 block and told me it was a 69...The block says 69, but how do i know it has the steel *** inside? The balancer appears to look like the steel one used tho?... so how did he get the 69 balancer mark to work with a later cover?  

I cannot get this thing to run right!! Its a 69 340 says so on block, but yet it has the damn drivers side cover on it.. I have set TDC#1, got oil pump slot and rotor pointing at 2 nd intake bolt on drivers side.. It refuses to run right! i tried setting total at 2500 and I had to retard the damn thing so far it wouldn't even run!! what is wrong here?!!  

It is possible the cam (timing chain) is installed a tooth off or something. That's tough to check, but almost anything is possible with stuff this old. I still suggest running the thing until it gets hot and then do some uphill pulls under load to see it you can get it to ping. If it doesn't ping under load, just keep advancing the timing until it does. Then back it off a few degrees. Since the numbers on the tab, or damper, are obviously way off, this is your best bet without totally disassembling the front of the motor to see what's what.