Holley Carb

Anyone know what a Holley List#4367 goes for? And what's the cfm rating? I thought the 4160 series were all 600cfm or 650cfm. Thanks.  

Also I cannot seem to get it to run properly. It's on a '78 440 w/ mild cam, intake and headers. The car will start then quit, like it's not pumpin any gas when it's running, but I'm not sure......carbs are not my strongpoint. It will squirt fuel when I manipulate the throttle, and although there is no sight glass, I'm pretty certain the bowls are filling up...maybe not enough. I'm certain there's no vaccum leak, and there's no fuel leaking out. The carb was recently rebuilt, so accelerator pump, power valve, check valves for the bowls, and all gaskets are new. I've tinkered around with it for about half an hour and I'm stumped. Any ideas? Thanks. If more info is needed please ask, I'll provide all I can.  

R-4367A   4160-C
1970 Chrysler Prod., 383 Eng. Std.
Emission
3418536
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R-4367-1A   4160-C
1970 Chrysler Prod., 383 Eng. Std.
Emission
3418536

both might be jetted a little bit too lean... but its hard to know... don't want you to melt any pistons..

the 78 carbs were slightly different... might have a idle air bleed adjustment instead of an idle mixture screw...  same location...  different function...  i have one of these later model holleys in my huge pile of old dead carbs.. but have never gotten it apart to verify...  most were water damaged and beyond repair...  but good for linkages and a few parts..  the roof leaked at a friends shop...  ruined dozens of carbs...  these i dug out of the trash and threw them in my transvair van.. along with 3 270 dodge hemi heads.. that i have been sitting there since 1982...
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not that it is the wrong carb.. it will work...

first... verify that you have full flow from the fuel pump ...   disconnect the carb.. and the both ends of the ballast resistor...  this should kill the ignition...  you don't want it to start or SPARK>..

push a longer piece of rubber fuel hose on the fuel line up from the pump.. put the end into a plastic bottle..   have someone crank the motor for 10 to 15 seconds...  you should get FULL even squirts every time..  it it squirts out a big pulse.. then smaller and smaller and smaller.. you have a fuel  restriction problem in the lines or tank... a huge problem on older cars...   dirt, rust, sugar, jack or jack stand damage to the lines under the car...


once you verify that the carb is getting the proper volume of gas delivered...  there are a bunch of other problems to check....    blocked fuel inlet passages in the carb...   crud blocking the needle and seat...  incorrect needle and seat adjustments....  there is a plug in the right side of the carb float bowls to open and check the level...  the fuel with the car on a level area... needs to just trickle out when you pull the plug..   read up before you try adjusting the float level...

set the mixture screws on the sides of the metering blocks at 3/4 turn open ...

adjust the idle speed way up..  the screw on the drivers side of the carb.. angled down....

this will let you get it running... then back off on the idle speed screw.. a bit at a time...

does it have a duel pick up coil distributer????   got a timing light... hook it up over the coil wire...  watch the flashing light... see if it quits when the key is released from the cranking position...


here is an article that covers most of whats inside the holley..

http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/0611st_carburetor_rebuild_kit_on_1967_chevy_c10/index.html  

Gas flow is good, and although there was quite a bit of blockage(tiny 6+legged critters laying eggs in my carb), I was quite meticulous in taking the carb apart and cleaning and clearing said critters and their nests, they're just gonna have to find a nice in some Chebby carb. What I think was the sight plug has been filled with some sort of epoxy sometime in the past, but float level was adjusted according to specs in the rebuild kit. Whether or not it's filling to the correct level, I am uncertain.

Thats about as far as I've gotten before I got rained out, and since my Pop's Charger is currently residing in the garage, I'll have to wait for a sunny day.

I'm beginning to think it just may be a tuning issue as the car ran fine with the previous, albeit smaller, Edelbrock, but I won't know till tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help and info. I'll post again when I get it running......or have more problems not gettin it to run. Thanks again.  

Turns out that this Holley is factory equipment for a 4spd car, sweet. This wouldn't affect it bein on a 440 auto.....would it?

Thanks again for the info.  

Should make no difference being on an automatic car other than you will need to rig up the throttle kick down for the automatic trans.
Doc  

if you have had bugs in the carb.....  did you verify every passage while you had it open...

not just with carb spray or brake cleaner but compressed air...  and a thin piece of wire...   there are tons of right angle passages in the holley metering block...   i have had terrible problems with getting them totally clean.. spider webs are really tough...

whats really funny...  bugs in the carb...   decades ago... i was building some carbs here in los angeles...   when i got in one of the trucks to drive it.. it would go like an electric motor sometimes... other times... 25mph.. sometimes 10mph..  when i got back to the shop...  i took it apart and found 3 sterile med flys ... they were setting loose buckets of them that day... they were everywhere...  when i put a load on the engine.. the fuel level would drop and the bugs would get sucked into the main jet... one, or two...  

a few days later... an other friend came by... ed garrett  who played ed the photographer on quincy..   he was telling me about his carb problem and i could not get a word in edgewise..  i just told him that there must be some bugs in the carb... when i pulled the top.. and reached in with tweezers.. extracted some bugs... he almost died laughing..  he thought i was only joking... i had built his carb the same day...  

Lol. Well Since I have the carb off, couldn't do any harm goin back thru it again. After hearing that story, I'm sure I missed something haha.

That's good to hear, at least I can set up the kickdown linkage. Does the setup work the same with part throttle kickdown as it does with just a regular trans?

Thanks for all the help fellas.  

since you have a carb calibrated for a smaller motor.. and an emission motor or at least the start of smog...

the idle feed restrictors may be too small.... causing a lean out just off idle....

remember...holleys run on the idle transition ports longer than other small primary carbs...  

with a larger displacement motor and an open plenum intake.. you need extra fuel to keep the engine in the sweet spot of air fuel ratios

i am going to post a few links to articles... that might be of help...     now... some of these are from other branded magazines...

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/71498/index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/newsletter/ccrp_0706_auto_repair_questions/holley.html

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

there are a bunch more when i googled  "opening the idle feed restrictors in a holley"