I have used the ultra black, good product and solved a couple of oil leak issues I have had over the yrs. Doc
thank you. i will drop the pan and retainer, clean and reseal.i soaked the fiber side strips in min spirits. i think i will just rub the new ones in ultra grey and seal in and out. thanks to everyones suggestions.i will let all know how it does.if it leaks after this im gonna buy a box of depends and a bungee cord.
Lightning, I just went through this same exact thing..... In my case, the upper seal groove and the crank were not on the same centerline. When only the upper seal was installed, you could see the gap on the passenger side where it was not touching the crankshaft. I tried the shim trick, it helped, but it still leaked way too much for me to live with. It was a big gap, and no rubber seal by any maker was going to take up that much space. I was ready to replace or remachine the block but my machinist said "lets try a rope seal first". Boy, that was the trick. Sealed it right up since the rope seal has alot more wiggle room when installed to seal up the gap. Part number for the kit I used was JV-551 (junior victor). It comes with a great silicone sealer for the sides and is about the same price as the rubber one. I know your pain as I spent most of the summer on my back taking the pan off about 10 times trying to get this fixed. Hope this helps you out. FYI...the 440 source rear main seal retainer really gave me trouble. They dont machine it to allow oil to drain away from the crank flange between the rear seal and the #5 bearing. When the retainer was installed in my engine, it was almost touching the #5 beaing cap, causing oil preasure to build in the seal area, increasing the leak problem. Compare the factory retainer to the 440 source one and you will see what I mean. The factory peice has a large undercut to allow the oil to drain from the rear seal to the pan. I had a machinist mill it out for me and it worked fine after that. Good luck....
THANK YOU. I HAD AN OLD TIMER ASK IF I TRIED A ROPE SEAL.I TOLD HIM THEY INVENTED RUBBER SEALS BECAUSE THEY WORK BETTER.HE LAUGHED AND SAID,(SUIT YOURSELF, THEY USE RUBBER BECAUSE ITS CHEAPER AND QUICKER TO INSTALL WHEN BUILT)I WILL TRY THE JV-551 BUT IM GONNA TRY THE SILVER SILICONE FOR THE SIDE SEALER. THANKYOU. MARK.
Rope seals work yes, but they rob horse power, to much drag on the crank. If a rubber seal is installed correctly they will do the job just fine. Doc
If, by your calculations, he looses a few horsepower with a rope seal, so what??? If he cant take it down the track because it leaks too much, his horsepower savings really doesnt matter much does it?Lightning, the JV kit comes with the silver sealer so get the kit first before you buy the silver stuff by its self. And follow its directions on using the sealer too. You should see it come out the sides of the seal retainer (looking at it from inside the block) when putting the silicone in, ensuring that the side groove is full. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
Your right, just stating a fact in case he is worried about 8-10 hp. I know most high performance owners are. And ya it is that much, I have seen a 10 hp loss with a small block using a rope seal on a dyno. Doc
A 10 HP loss? I doubt it. That much drag on the crank would cause so much heat from friction that it would burn the seal out almost instantly. Scare tactics are not the answer to help you prove your point. Lets stick to the topic and try to help this guy out. I agree that the rubber seal is best, but if you had read his original post, the rubber one isnt woking, its time to move on to another solution. Guys, please question if you want to be taking advice from the man who tells you to add "stop leak" to your engines, leave that crap to the ford guys. Lets try a better solution.
Doubt it all you want. After installing a rope seal in a 60's ford, I couldn't even turn the crank over by hand. Yes it was installed correctly. Nothing trick, a factory install with a stock crank that needed a leaky rope seal replaced. The good news is the replacement rope seal solved the leak problem. The bad news is the rope seal is a drag on the crank. Doc
I HAVE TRIED TO FIND JV551 ROPE REAR MAIN SEAL KIT FOR BB. NO LUCK. I TRIED MOPAR PERF,JEGS,SUMMIT,NAPA,LOCAL CHAIN,E BAY. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO FIND THIS PART?
Felpro / Rear Main Seals Part Number: BS11748 application.. 59-61 413...there is a problem.. getting it in... you really need to pack it into the groove with a BIG socket... using the side of the smooth socket to pack it in... the socket has to be almost the size of the seal area of the crank...after i pack it in... i don't cut it off.. i also coat the wear surface of the seal with moly graphite assy lube.. i then put the crank in... in motors designed to use the rope seals.. they usually have a spike to stop the seal from spinning..with the crank in.. and the main caps torqued... i then take a brass pin punch and pack as much of the rear main seal that is sticking out as i can... the main caps stop the crank from lifting.. i usually can pack in an additional quarter inch on each side... i then take a very sharp razor blade or exacto.. to trim off the excess... still leaving it slightly above the mating surface... after i pack the lower half into the seal housing.. i also dab a tiny bit of sealer on the ends of the seal and then install it.. squeezing in some silicone into the sides... then forcing in the side seals...remember.. you have to pack the seal into the groove... with the side of a big socket.. you cannot just lay the seal in... and expect the crank to push it into the groove.. this is totally wrong... pack it in... evenly...if your block does not have the pin... that holds the upper or lower rope seal... you really might want to think about some superweather strip adhesive in the aluminum seal holder groove to glue the seal into place to stop any chance of it spinning...only on the center of the groove... a one inch long bead...
65lightning, I got the JV kit from our local autoparts dealer, Sturdevants automotive, they had it the next day as they stocked it at thier wharehouse. I looked a bit online for you but could not find it either. I did find the Felpro one at napa that wayne talks about, but it doesnt come with sealer, but napa lists the seal at only 10 bucks. I dont know if I would pack it in as tight as wayne did, The top half fits pretty snug just getting it installed with the crank already in the engine. I dont know if you plan on taking the engine all apart to install the seal, or just removing the pan and retainer and installing the seal with it in the car. It does need to be installed snug either way, but I wouldnt drive the end in with a punch. Its your call, see how the top half goes in and go from there....Oh, use the "sneaky pete" seal installer tool, it will really help pull the seal around the top if your going to install the seal with the crank still in the block.
read up replacing the rope rear main seals...http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/bobadler-1.htmyou only get to look at this link one time if you are not a subscriber to .. or you can dump your cookies..http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2009/03/01/hmn_tips2.htmlhttp://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0810sr_bestgasket_rope_seals_ford_y_block/index.html
I installed a rope seal while it was still in the car, however it really helps if you can back off the mains. The seal will slide in much easier this way. Doc
I run a moroso 8 qt pan with an hp1 1 qt filter with 7 qts of 10-30