front brake drums with studs - Mopar Muscle Forums at Mopar Muscle Magazine

front brake drums with studs

  
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front brake drums with studs

 
64dodge330 64dodge330
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 08/19/09
07:54 AM

I am working on a 1964 dodge 330 and I need some advice. 2 wheel studs are damaged so I want to replace them. They look permanently attached to the drum so I went to auto zone and ordered 2 new front 10 inch drums. The ones that arrived do not have the 5 threaded studs or the bearing in the middle. They are just 10 inch drums with a large hole for the bearing and 5 holes for the threaded studs. Am I supposed to bring this to a machine shop and have them force out the studs and bearing? I was really hoping to buy drums with the bearings and studs mounted so I could just swap them. But even looking under different models and engine sizes in auto zone’s computer keeps showing the drums they received. I even looked in parts catalogs from Layson’s and the Paddock but they either don’t have drums or they sell the same ones auto zone came up with. Any ideas? Anything would be appreciated.  

 
waynep7122 waynep7122
User | Posts: 66 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 08/20/09
08:04 PM

replacement drums usually do not come with hubs...

there are several ways of installing the studs..  some are stamped with a 4 way *** that leaves little notches.. to hold the drum in place..

others have a full circle of deformity..  holding the drum on tight..

you really do have to find someone... with not just a press...  but a stud installation jig...   it aligns the tooling to press out the stud and press it in.. then to swedge ? it into place... this locks the drum to the hub.. so it does not fall off or move around when changing tires...

try a Napa store. some have full service machine shops...    if you live in a larger town... you might get them done at a brake specialty supplier..

using a die to clean the threads is acceptable unless they are totally torn up...  stretched...   bent... broken...

what happens when you go to a regular shop who does not know any better... they press the studs into the hub without a proper jig...  they will bend the hub forward...

when you put the drum on.. it will be wobbling...   you will feel it..

i have had to fix cars with this problem...

i dismount the drum... along with all the studs...   i then mount the hub only on the disc brake lathe...  i then take the smallest cut...  just enough to make the face flat.. not enough to remove more than a few thousands from the flat and true area...    when putting it all back together.. i support the hub on a pilot... i have used piston pins... they are really strong and usually just about the right size...

i also install studs with a grease on the threads...  a brand new nut backwards... flat side in... and a stack of washers with the first few large enough to clear the shoulder on the stud.. most cases they do stick through..  before installing the drum.. i do check that the area around the stud is still flat..


do you need the left hand threaded studs.. or the right hand threaded studs...
dorman products has a fairly complete list of studs they offer...


oh... by the way...  are your drum brakes equipped with self adjusters?????

what size brake shoes do you have????/  the 169's or the 265's you might do a little research and pick up the self adjuster kits and return spring  kits for later model cars that use the same brake shoes but with self adjusters..  

 

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