charging promblem

I have a 66 charger and have a problem with the charging system. Have a new alternator, been through a few voltage regulators, replaced wires, cleaned grounds, and still I can't get it to charge correctly.  I either won't get a charge or today after I replaced the regulator again I am overcharging, which seems like a ground problem but I can't find it. Any help would be appreciated and you can start at the very beginning because I've been over this so many times it seems bizarre that it still doesn't work.  

Is this a point type voltage regulator (original Type) or have you converted to a solid state reg and matching alternator?  Have you ever lost electric power to the whole car?  Are you checking with an external gauge or the one in the car?
Don  

It's a points regulator and I have a single field alt.  I have never lost electrical power to the entire car, and I've been checking with an external volt meter. JL  

Compare the charging voltage at the battery and at the main term on the alternator.  Also check the terminals on the veh amp meter.  They are known to come loose.  The entire veh is fed thriugh these connections.  Disconnect the battery when you pull the inst cluster.  These amp meter connections are hot all the time.  While your there, take the terminals off, clean them and put internal star washers on both sides of the terminal when you put it back together.  Is the battery ground bolted to the eng block and is the small ground cable on the firewall fastened to the engine?
Don  

I'm kinda past all the regular checks.  I've been over the whole thing 10 times. At this point I'm gonna get the battery tested again and replace all the ground straps and bolts to make sure. It's either going to be something that I'll kick myself for or it's one of those unpredictable electrical things that doesn't make too much sense.  

2 atlernators, 4 regulators, replaced wiring, new battery and still no spark at the voltage regulator.  Anyone got a clue.  I'm either running on battery power or I push 15+ volts all the time. I don't want to take it somewhere especially when everything is new.  

Lets start at the begining.  You said that it is a point type reg.  Is it an original type point reg or one of the aftermarket solid state replacements.  I have delt with these and they always overcharge.  First lets try overcharging.  Connect a jumper wire from pos to the field terminal at the reg.  This causes full charge demand.  Do not rev the eng and don't leave on very long.  You should have full charge at idle or fast idle.  Next test the power to the reg.  This is key on power and should always equal battery voltage with the key on.  If you suspect this wire, try disconnecting it and jump pos from the battery to this terminal.  The system is simple, key on power to the reg and varying power from the field term of the reg to the field term on the alt.  I'll try to stay with you on this.  Not being there, does not help me.
Don  

Cudadon I really appreciate your time and help on this.  I've been changing between a couple of regulators (point type) that I have.  Don't know if there any good at this point though.  With one I get no charge and like maybe 4 or so volts at the field connection and 12volts everywhere else with car running.  Also 12volts with key on.  Another I get 15volts at idle and 20 with rpms up all around.  Now one thing is if I had bad continuity through one of my wires or connections with 20volts going through the entire system it would fry the bad wire/connection right?  So maybe I fixed a problem but still have a bad regulator.  I did order a solid state one and it should be here this week, did you say you had experience with these and are they good or bad?  Thanks so much  JL  

Guy's, I'm going to put my two cents worth in. I too had the same problem for years.
I was running 15 volts at idle and it would peg the amp gauge at 45 mph. My problem started when I converted to electronic ignition from points. This went on for approx. 8 years. In the meantime I went thru alternators, regulators just trying to
fix the problem. Voltage stared coming down when I first restored my gauges, then new enging bay wiring and then what I think fix the problem was when I converted to
70' style charging system with dual field alt. If you converted to electronic igniton and are running the 37 amp alternator there is not anough amp/volt there to
supply all the current draw so I think what is happening is the charging system
is seeing a draw or drain due to the low amp alt. Hey! it's worth a try!! I also
rerouted the hot wire that goes thru the bulkhead to the amp. gauge. There is a web site called madelectrical.com, solves dodge electrical problems. Check it out.  

I don't think that's where my problem is I don't have an electronic ignition right now.  Rerouting the hot wire past the bulkhead could be a good idea though will take a look.  JL  

Electronic ign does not matter.  They draw 6 amps.  I have them on both cars.  One car has dual field alt (60amps) with solid state reg.  The other had a single field alt (35 amps) with an after market solid state reg.  This one always overcharged.
The lower amp alt does not matter unless you have to many accessory's, then it will not keep the battery up, but it will not overcharge.  Any alt cannot overcharge with the reg causing it.  I asked earlier if you checked the connections on the amp gauge.  All power except for the main lead on the starter and alt goes through the amp gauge.  This is important.  Point regulators are adjustable.  Mopar did make an external adjustable one.  I don't know if you can still get one.  The bulkhead connector can have problems, but the amp gauge connections being loose are more common.  What are the results of the tests I suggested. Perform all alt test with a good fully charged battery.
Don  

O.K. Cudadon I might just have it.  I put a solid state regulator on and its definitely charging tell me if the volt numbers are too high.  At idle I'm at about 12 or 13volts at battery, threaded stud on alt, ignition side of regulator, and into resistor and 14 or 15 volts with rpms up at same places.  At field connection on regulator I'm at 6 volts at idle but goes down below 3 volts with rpms up. At coil I'm at about 12 or 13volts with rpms up. These numbers could be a little off due to I don't have a very good meter. Does this sound O.K.?  Thanks for your time Cuda.  JL  

Most of it sounds OK.  The problem seems to be the voltage at the coil.  The voltage at the coil should be 7-9 volts.  This is lowered by the resister.  Check this out.
Don  

I kinda thought that too so I put another older resistor I had on and it idles at about 9 volts so thats a little better.  One thing is my volt meter is on the cheap side so it could be off a couple volts.  Everything seems to be pretty good though. I really appreciate your help, Thank You.   JL  

My 10 cent fix.

My 70 Cuda was having the same problem; severely overcharging the battery spewing fluid and bloating like some kinda road kill that been there a few days. I even heard it saying, in a squeaky little voice “help me mommy” My son heard it too.

Anyway after several batteries, alternators, regulators and ballast resistors I found it was a 10 cent and 15 minute fix.  THE WIRE TO THE REGULATOR WAS BROKEN INSIDE THE CONNECTOR at the regulator.  The connectors are molded with the wire and metal part of the connector already crimped so when the metal part broke at the crimp it all remained attached inside the connector with no visible sign of damage. Even checking the continuity did not catch it because when I would stick the end inside I think it would push the two broken parts together.  I think the weight of the wire harness broke it so after I fixed it I zip-tied it up so there would be no weight on the connector.  

I just got it fixed today and I found this thread very helpful to me while I was trying to figure it out. So thanks everybody for your

posts.http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p168/aaron175617/brokenwire.jpg

Aaron