Ok guys this is my first post. I don't know much abt engines, but my Dad and I cannot figure out what is wrong. Who better to ask than the people who've been doing it for years. So....I've got a 360 in a 73' Challenger. It's got a mild cam in it (street use, don't plan to race it at all) and an Edlebrock 4 barrel carb. We completely took it apart and did all that jazz to it, got it all cleaned up and put it back together ourselves. So far it's doing great except for one small problem. When you gradually push the gas pedal, it does great, but if you romp on it, abt 3/4 throttle or so, it stumbles pretty badly. Some have said its the carb, and others said timing. We've played w/the timing and it has not helped, and I can't afford to just run out and get another carb and hope it works. We put a brand new distributor in it. Did not help. Then we happened to pull the cap off and the rotor button was bent on the end. The little metal tab had been bent sideways. We put another button and cap on it and it would not even hardly start. We played w/the timeing again and could not get it. We put the broken button in and it started right up. We still had the old distibutor but the vacume advance was bad on it. We put it on anyways and it ran great, so we just got a new vacume advance for it and now it's doing the same thing again. Please give me some ideas. Feel free to ask ?'s. I'll answer them as best I can. This car really means alot to me. I got it when I was 16, drove it for a year or so, and started tearing it apart for restoration. I just turned 23 in October and have not been able to drive it yet, so this has been a very long project. My Mom cried when we finally got to just start it up. Anyways...any advice would be helpfull. Thank you guys so much in advance.  

There are adjustments on the armature of the accelerator pump.
Try increasing the pump shot volume with 1 of 3 points of adjustment.  

I would definitely think it needs more accelerator pump-shot. Just out of curiosity, what's the timing set at?  

Weird to say it ran ok with the old dist. and when you installed the new vac. advance it acted up again. Makes one think you may be running to much initial timing.
Here's the deal when timing a small block, disconnect the vac. line and set the initial timing at 10-12 degrees for all none computer cars, 34/36 total at 3000 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. If all this checks out o.k. make sure your cap, coil tower, is not cracked, your wires rotor are o.k., and your plugs are correct. If all this checks out you will still need to check for proper operation of the control box, this will have to be done on a auto shop computer, or if you have a spare install it as a test item.
Also make sure you don't have more than 5 degrees of timing chain movement, otherwise your timing will become irratic especially under acceleration.
If it is a single chain with miles on it replace it with a double roller from a 340.
If you still haven't found the problem, do a compression test, and if this is good look deep into what ever you run for a carb. The accel. pump is the first place to look in this area.  

Thx guys for the help. This will give us a great start this weekend. We have not even thought abt the accelerator pump. Rbolig- I'll be honest, I have no idea what the timing is set at and would not even know how to tell. I'll know more after this weekend tho. Drmopar- thx for all the info. Lots to look at. The timing chain is brand new, so should be ok, but we'll double check it to make sure. I thought it might have something to do w/the electrical system, but have not tested anything out yet. We were gonna check some of it too. Thx again for all the advice. Any more would be great. Would like to check all I can this weekend and drive it a bit before we take it back to the body shop.  

The only other thought I have is to check the fuel filter and the fuel pump volume and pressure, p.s. make sure the fuel is not contaminated from sitting more than a few mths.
Also double check to make sure the timing chain is installed correctly and not out a tooth.
Good Luck.  

Hello, fix the pump shot already and set timing before doing so.  

Bring No. 1 piston up to TDC. Pull the distributor and crawl up on the engine and look down into the block at the oil pump shaft. Make sure the slot the distributor shaft drops into on the oil pump drive is parallel with the crankshaft. If its not, lift the pump drive up and reposition it so that when it is seated all the way down into the oil pump the distributor slot is parallel with the crank. One tooth off here drastically changes cam timing.  

No it doesn't, you just turn the distributor so more to line up the corresponding cylinder[technically speaking]