I would like some insight / opinions on a cam choice for my 360 stroker. Runs a mopar steel crank, K1 H beam rods, Ross flat top forged pistons, edelbrock rpm heads and M1 intake. Comp will be around 10.5:1. I'm real keen for a hydraulic roller as it would be a little more sympathetic to my valve gear than a solid roller or solid flat tappet cam. Car will be a streeter but with plenty of strip time. Driving manners arent a big deal as its not an every day car.I'm in Australia and the car is a 72 Aussie Charger ( basically a 3000lb A body to you guys) I fully expect to have to pay a bit extra to import the cam, lifters etc but nobody really caters for the serious mopars down here. Its all chebys and phords so I need some help!! I'm basically after a torque monster that will get me down the quarter in 10 seconds!!  

You did not say if it is based on a LA or a Magnum engine.
I know of a cran hydraulic roller that would likely fit the bill.
CRN-699641 is the part number this is a nasty cam and will propel your little Charger well.
I think its power band is from 3500-7000.
Lift is .548-558 Duration is around 300 and 250@.50
This is the max lift I would go with LA heads ported, after .550 intake lift the cyl. head actually develops asthma. Other words the flow begins to back up.
With the torque of a 408 this cam will really make your engine breath.
If your running a magnum block you will have to check with crane if they make the same cam for that block.
If not apparently you can drill an oil passage in cam bearing #4 which will feed oil to the cylinder heads.
I would recommend calling 1-888-528-HEMI or 4364, this is the mopar tec. help line in the U.S. & Canada. They are always very helpful.  

Thanks a lot for your info, the engine is an LA - we were'nt lucky enough to get the magnums down here aside from personal import Rams. I'll get onto crane and suss out what they've got. I also need rocker arms, valve springs and push rods and would like to get hold of a package deal if possible. Thanks again for your help - sounds funny when you refer to my charger as little, over here they're considered to be quite a big car!!  

Actually I think your charger is based on our Valiant/Duster A bodies which are considered small and light as far as high performance cars go.
Check out summit racing or Jegs for your valvetrain needs they have a great selection, another excellent shop is Hughes engines, this is a Mopar specialist shop and the Aluminum Rocker system is one of the better ones.  
As far as I am concerned the LA set up is the best way to go especially with the solid rocker arm set up. Over .500 lift the magnum rockers are known to fail.  
Good Luck  

Thanks again for the info, our charger is basically your valiant floor pan and engine bay with local sheet metal around it. We weren't graced with the bigger B body cars here so the humble valiant was about as big as we got aside from some locally assembled phoenix's! Actually its good because we can use your after market for heaps of parts on our local cars. Checked out the cam specs today and they sound good. Only thing I was a little concerned about was how high the rev range go's. Was hoping not to have to spin it to 7000. I've heard of Hughes engines and will check those guys out later. Will do as you advised and talk to the tech line before making any major decisions but that will have to wait till monday. Thanks again for your help  

I run a solid Mopar cam that is rated from 2800 to 7000 rpm, I actually go through the traps at 6300 and my shifts are 5800.
Why? probably because I use a dual plan air-gap intake that is rated to 6500, which as you know is a mid-range intake.
My point, don't be afraid to give the cam a chance, the biggest obsticule you will have is the 3500 starting point, I would recommend as much converter as you can handle with your chassis and tires.
At least a 4500/4600 stall, dynamic converters in the U.S. make a 9 1/2 inch street strip unit and I can tell you it is the best converter on the market.  
You need approx. 2000 rpm between shifts, so your shift point would be 6500. With I or H beam rods, 6500 should be no issue for the 408. Just make sure you have 65 lbs. oil pressure when going through the traps, and use a quality 20w-50 racing oil like Valvoline. Once the engine is broke in you can run straight synthetic or mix it 50/50 as I do.
The nice thing about a cam that is suppose to rev. to 7000 is it is still pulling hard the last 100 ft. were you usually win the race.
Before ordering a converter make sure you have your total package on paper, dynamic needs all this info such as gears, intake, carb etc. to determine and set the stall on their converters.
good luck.  

Hey Charger man. Im doing up a 408 and have done heaps and heaps and heaps of research. There are a few places you can contact here: Outlaw Speed Shop cater to Mopar folks and know what theyre talking about. they also dont have any allegiance to specific brands so they will only recommend and sell what is right for your car. Crane are very good as well as Howards. Also check www.summitracing.com and speak to someone on their live chat. You can try Pentastar Parts in Sydney but very ***
Hemiperformance has a bad rep so Id be wary. Summit Racing and Jegs are incredibly cheap, cheaper than buying from the actual manufacturers theyre selling for.
Good luck and would like to hear more about your engine as Im building mine next year. 1972 VH XL

Brett  

Oh just a quick note-
Hydraulic flat tappet for the Edelbrock Performer RPM head.

Thats What Ive been told anyway

Brett  

Your gonna need a big stick for 10s. I would look at the largest of Cop Cams Thumpr series.  

A solid roller would be the best if you have a lot of ***  The cost of everything needed for this will be in excess of $1000.oo US.  The next best would be a solid flat tappet.  Something around 250 deg at .050.  Try for a dual profile.  Most Mopar heads need more duration on the exhaust, even the Edelbrock's.
Don  

Pretty much Don.
I like the the engle KV-4 if the compressions there, I'm actually installing a KV-3 in my 410 that I had the spec's fiddled to the not so great 9.8-1 compression I have.
But it should run real nice.  

What's up everyone, I have a 1969 Dodge Dart GTS with a 318 (GTS' used to have 340's but here in Mexico all they had 318's, I'm mexican and never been in USA). I'm planning to make some mods that includes a comp cams PP280H cam with magnum heads but with the higher ratio  of these roller rocker's heads the lift will be I wonder if the sound of the cam would be different.  I think that the sound of a cam is determined for the duration but that's only my opinion I'm not sure of that. Does anyone know something about this?  

You shouldn't really notice much/any difference in sound by going from 1.5 to 1.6, you do need to however add 2thou more clearance to the lash in order to not change the degree at which the valves open/close.  

OK, thank you so much man.  

Hey Brett,
Sorry about the late reply but I'm just getting used to all this computer stuff and forgot to keep an eye on the thread I started with the cam question after drmopar gave me some great info.
I've ordered a cam, lifters roller rockers, springs etc and am eagerly awaiting their arrival! Unfortunately I got caught badly with the radical colapse of the Oz dollar and am now looking to hand over a few extra bucks!

Thanks for your info on local contacts - I've still got a way to go with this project and will look to those guys for parts in the future. Already well aware of Hemi performances bad rep as I think most people are AFTER theyve bought something from them!!
Know what you mean about Summit and Jegs prices, I got my steel Mopar crank from summit cheaper than Mopar could sell it to me!!??
Keep up the good work with the 1972 VH XL - My personal favourite ( same as mine!) - who wants an R/T anyway???
Fill me in on how your going with it and what you've done so far.
           Glen