Got this 440 motor and torn it down to short block. Steel crank and 30over flat top pistons. measuring from block deck to tdc piston is .160. Does this seem a bit much or is this a really low compression setup. The block is a 1974(j code RB) and the heads are 906 type and has grey single springs.  If this is normal what cam can I run? How do I up the compression?
Thanks-Ron  

Sounds like 8.0-1 compression.
You could check the bore [bore gauge] And if there not out of round maybe dingle ball hone it and slip in some 10.1 flat top pistons.
Yes you can mill the heads and the intake side to compensate say .035 and this will bring it up a lil, probably pick up another 4-5psi cranking psi, than what you have.  

Thanks for that info, kinda figured that was what I had. The only way to make hp is more compression, looks like pistons is the ticket. More cam probably won't do much at this present state?  The assembly is balanced and that will have to be redone. Any other ideas out there?
Thanks-Ron  

Well if you can weigh the pistons you have now and possibly match that weight by grinding or even get it lil lighter with the new pistons you could drop them right in with out balancing.
You CAN be a lil lighter on the piston side even if it's out of balance a lil and not hurt anything as opposed to heavier pistons or lighter on the crank side.
Yes compression helps horse power but what you are thinking should also be low compression will 1st & mostly hurt low speed performance with any more cam then you have.  

You can safetly cut .060 of the heads, use a thin head gasket, this will give you at least a one +point increase, and this would make for a decent street engine.  

Just make sure you have a freshly machined block/deck surface with the steel head gaskets that dr. recommends, but know after you do this you might wanna cc them so you can know right off the bat weather they'll work with possibly higher comp pistons in the next engine or if they have become 'specific' to the current engine if you catch my drift. good luck  

I see this thread is a bit old, but wanted to mention that if you want to go low-buck with a home hone and re-ring like 340 mentioned to check the bore diameter in several places. I've actually seen blocks with as much as .018" cone taper. S'pose it's the greater side thrust at the bore bottom. But if I were to have done the low-buck hone&re-ring I was thinking of based on relatively light bore wear at the top of the ring travel those rings would have been working in and out of their grooves something terrible!