Bob, no offence, I just think this forum was ment to help people that are not sure whats what.
So the guy has a machinist trying to help him not make a mistake and put 10.5/1 slugs in a street car.
Then you and Mr. 4 speed tell him you drive with zero problems. I later find out thats not true.
All the power to both of you if you can make your cars work with 10.5 pistons. Burning a ton of unecessary fuel however is a total waste of money and some might say irresposible with the concerns of climate change and all.  
So if you can have the best of both worlds, e.g. fuel economy and performance, then as enthusists we are going forward and hopefully the gov. won't one day regulate our cars off the roads because we have learned to adapt our muscle cars to todays higher standards.
Plus I gurantee you anyone running without vac. advance or a car that is not at operating temp. will have an engine that not only burns more gas, it also pollutes unecessarly. Why? because your burning a ton of unecessary fuel.
It certainly isn't going to be as clean out the tailpipe as mine, clean tailpipes show a efficient engine, and just because its efficient doesn't mean it doesn't make power, how about 447 hp at the crank with 9.5 slugs in my 360, again its a personal choice. I personally am concerned about fuel economy and what is best for my Mopar, and the environment. Besides, up here in Canada 94 octane Sunoco costs almost $7.00 a gallon so you see, we try and get the most out of a gallon of gas.  

Remember dr. we don't have stock cams.
We have cams that bleed off cyl pressure actually reducing/eliminating the effect of high comp mixed w/low octane.
If I were to run your 9.5 pistons with my cam Instead of 155psi I'd have 125 or so and that makes a weak no low rpm power having, well you get my drift.  

Again mr. 4 speed you got it wrong, I have 145lbs in all my cylinders with 9.5 and I run the exact same 284/528 solid you do and yes I advanced it four degrees.
So how is 10 lbs of cylinder pressure going to give you any advantage. I'll tell you what 10 lbs of cylinder pressure equals, a half a tenth in the quarter mile. Personally I can find a half a tenth anywhere. Maybe your bleeding off more cyl pressure than you think, because your rings might not be sealing properly due to a rich engine.  Maybe your running rich because you are not running the proper timing set up for a street car.
Interesting you do a lot of talk but have shown us zero to back up your claims, if indeed you are making 470 horse power with your 340 a body as you claim, then you should be running 11 seconds in the quarter.
I don't see your car on the community list with any time slips, just Bobs beautiful Challenger.
So whats the deal, lets see your 11 second car that gets approx. 10 miles to the gallon and your able to drive 2 hrs. each way to the track as I do.
My 12 second B body is there for all to see and it gets 18 miles pr. Canadian gallon.
When was the last time you saw a small block in a B body that is street driven, yank the front end like mine does on every pass, and ya thats with the vac. advance connected!
I can't wait to here from you, as it seems you have to have the last word about everything.  

ADVANTAGE?
EXAMPLE-450hp sb w/9.5 comp, now change the compression to 10.5=462hp
Thats 12 hp in that example.

BTW you get 18mpg w/vac adv?
I get 15 right now w/o vac adv.
I never said mileage was a bad thing.
Vac adv is a mileage thing so in other words unhook it you''l run pretty much the same et.
SO.. mentioning your et still does nothing for your argument.
My valiant is a daily driver [A REAL DAILY DRIVER] & my mixture is pretty spot on so I'm not sure what your talking about with the washed ring ***
 
As for the list of cars, My humble valiant doesn't impress the unimpressed such as your self with a '12second la b body' that gets 18mpg.
Besides it's like every time I go to car shows I always skip the cars and go right for the parts, I'm Just not into the show part of it.
Just curious of what heads you run?  Flow sheets?
BTW HP DOES NOT AUTOMATICALLY EQUAL YOUR QTR MILE ET IT HAS A LOT MORE TO DO WITH THE CARS SETUP.
I'll go look at your mileage miser.
Again My car runs great , but thanks really.
OH, BTW  I'm gonna respond as long as I'm being questioned.
Makes sense to me.  

So are you going to post your beauty or not? Don't worry, I had you figured out the first time I read one of your postings, your postings are generally rude and sarcastic, as if your talking down to the mopar world with all your higher knowledge. Or at least you think you are. You don't even know when to take a compliment. Did I not say good for you if you can make your car run on todays pump gas with 10.5 compression. I just don't agree with how you do it, and I dont have to! Why?  Because I am a certified Class A Inter-Provincial licensed tech. that is licensed to work any were in the world.    
My car is a daiy driver to, so what point are you trying to make.
I didn't say your car made 470hp, you did on a different post.
So what does your mighty 340 run in a A body anyway, remember I was asking? low 11's, 12's, maybe 13's, I'd be curious to know how fast a 4 speed 470 hp 340 really goes in such a small car.
You see Mr. 4 Speed, you can fool some of the people some of the time, even some of the people all of  time, but you can't fool us all forever.
If you read the readers ride posting of my car you can see I have 360 J heads, ported and polished, stock valves. What do they flow, nothing special since it is a mild porting, 230 intake 190 exhaust.
Your right about one thing, vehicle combination is everything and so is timing.  
By the way, try tightening your valve lash about 10-12 thousands, its worth another tenth of a second, only do this if your running synthetic oil like a royal purple, or is that going to be an issue as well?
This little trick has been known for yrs. about  mopars solid cams, I thought you might be interested since you seem to know all.  

A simple case of 2 many cooks in the kitchen ladies and genitals.
10 yrs ago I tried the lash bit and in my case slowed me down but if it worked for you good.
I have actually increased the lash with my 1.6 full roller rockers 2* in order to keep the valve timing the same.
Yea there's sarcasm in some of my postings but not when someone is listening to the advise I've given, giving it a shot, maybe teaching us both something.
Compliment? this is computer land where there is no voice tone , facial expression, ect so what do you expect? gee thanks bro!
Royal purple is a great product but I use Schaefers oil , I used to use Kendal.
I run home fiddled shop flowed X heads cfm= 242int-185exh the heads flow 237 by .400 & 198 @.300
This is what's in my humble faded primer'd spoted valiant.
.030 KB hypers
the fore mentioned heads
MP.528 w/1.6 roller rcks=aftr lash .533
windage tray, valley baffle
wieand single plane from 72' can you say old?
Stock oil pump, 8qt pan
750 holley, MSD ign & dist
And it go into a 70' a-833 4spd lakewood bell centr frce clutch
Right now there's 8 3/4  3.73 [4.10 I took out after fontana drags]
SS springs snubber frame connects rear 3 way shocks.
I still run small bolt slots with 235 60 14 tires that spun 1st,2nd and into 3rd where I finally hooked and ran a not so great 13.86 104.53, the car hooks better on the street, But like I said i had *** tires on a slick hot track and could not hook. Since then I picked up some MT slicks and skinnys from a friend so that will all change.
I really don't care what people think when they see how bad my last experience was at the track, I only care if my advise is good and weather I'm helping them or not.
My car is more a street car than anything hence the power steering, recarro seats 400watt stereo, and so on. The car weighs 3192lbs.
Dr. sceptic, you believe what you want to believe about who's being truthful.
I really don't care.  

Thanks for your honesty, like you said in the world of computers we can't be sure of everyones intent.
By the way with the mile pr hr. your running, your car will break into the high 12's with the slicks, very respectable.
Instead of beating on each other I would rather work together to help those in need of help, like I said your intitled to your opinion, so am I. I think it would be better in the future to agree to disagree about a subject than bump heads like we have.

Take Care
Tom  

Facts a fact and opinions are just what they are. agreed.
The day I quit learning is the day that life isn't fun anymore.
I think we can play together.[joke]
I'll try and get some pics up
take it easy.
Justin  

Right on Justin, believe me I have owned a ton of cars that didn't look the best, it takes yrs. of hard work, and sometimes sticking with one project throughout those yrs. I would be glad to see your vehicle posted. I have owned the Satellite for 32  yrs. know, why a Satellite, because when I bought it I loved the 67 GTX but at 21 couldn't afford the insurance, no prob, the satellite as you know is a pretty close copy and with a small block I have the best of both worlds.

Take Care Tom  

I've owned quite a few myself but this one is just not finished yet [been working on every one else's cars].  

GemcityRT, cc the heads and find out if your really gonna have for compression with those '10.5' pistons along with piston to deck height.
You find more like high 9's.  

building a street 340 with "10.5:1 pistons" is not a mistake. A-what is the rpm range you will run = size of camshaft, bigger cam wants more compression. B-how much if any, have the heads and block been surfaced. used 340 heads and blocks should be cut to avoid gasket problems, uncut most engines: 318-440, chevy ,ford,pontiac,have less than advertised compression ratio. C-what thickness head gaskets are being used ,stock 340 gasket was thin compared to the average aftermarket gaskets today, thicker by about .020" equals .5 less compression. unless U are using a smaller cam than stock (never) I would use Keith Black hyperutectic 10.5 pistons, a quench design giving more efficiency than stock. a 650 edelbrock carb,dual plane intake,35-36* total mechanical advance(to that add some vacuum advance if U want a LITTLE better gas milage). think about buying Edelbrock heads, not much more money than the cost of completely rebuilt heads,lighter and they are a quench design(use a flattop 10.5 piston)sell the stock heads to a restorer.  

Starting to make some sense, the eddy heads with 10.5 pistons are the equivilant of running a 9.5/10.0 motor with steel heads, with a cam that has a good amount of duration this will work.  

Compression is a very odd thing if you dont understand it. Are you talking dynamic comp ore static do you realy have 10.5 or did you by 10.5 pistons and put them in a set of heads with 70cc combustion chambers. how is your ring seal 9.0 comp will ping like holley hell with no quench and oil in comb chambers.A realy hot plug will make a mtr detonate. I like lower comp now days cause i dont trust the fuel companies. I think ther is more power els where.  

befor the engine is built we talk static comp. ratio-look at what the new modern factory engines run-kinda high. it works with the engine fresh and sealed, correct timing, correct fuel air ratio, proper heat spark plugs, correct sized intake,exhaust,cooling system, gear ratios etc.  It is the total COMBINATION ! and it can be done with a carb. and no computer, just use your own brain and time.