I have recently purchased a 71 dodge demon with intentions of building a low 11 second street/track car.  It already has a 440 in it and quite a good start heres what the car has 440 with 9.7:1 compression, 906 heads ( how much work is done to them is unknow) they have hardened valve seats, brass guides, 3 angle back cut valves, double springs and locks, supposedly blueprinted/balanced, weiand team g single plane intake, might demon 850 carb, mallory unilite electronic distributor, mopar performance ignition, hooker super comp fenderwell headers 2", 3.5" exhaust with flowmaster delta 40 mufflers,  8 3/4 rear end i believe 489 case with 3:23 gears, 727 trans with manual reverse valve body, frame ties, driveshaft loop, hayden heavy duty driveshaft with large u joints.  Car performs well on every day driving nvr overheats has 18* intial timing and max of 32.  

problem is the gears 1 and second i am suppose to have a b&m 3000 stall in there but car only flashes to 1800 so i been thinking of going with a 9.5" dynamic 3500 stall with some 4:10 gears.

that most likely wont just cut the grade for low 11's but should be a good start.  My question is what else is needed to hit low 11's maybe even possibly high 10's without having to go to a 500 ci stroker with cnced heads and etc...

a mopar chassis book has all your info an more  

The 440 is a good base. Mid to low 11's can be done with any MOPAR V8 and has been done many times over without stroking the engine. 1st can that B&M torque converter! Use a ATI, TCI, Hughes or Continental! A loose 10" will work fine. We had a Continental 10" J series behind a 383 with 906's in a Duster with 4.30 and 29.5x11.0 running 12 O's. Stall was 3500RPM. You will get about 4000 from you 440 so make it a little tighter than a J and the larger dia will make it pull harder on the top end. The gears you elect will go hand in hand with the tire you run. Are your springs moved in? If not you will be limited to 9" tire and that will cause traction problems w/ a 440. Do you have the subframes tied? If not, do so and put a 4 or 6 point bar in it! It will work without it but you will twist the car in a short time and your 60 ft time will suffer and a NHRA track will not let you run that fast without one. Proved the twisting we did with a small block running 11.8 sec. Are you sure about the internals of the engine? 9.7 compression is workable but more is better. Are they stock pistons? Cast will not hold up to 6000rpm for too long. Rod bolts would be the next thing to check. If they are stock, replace them. And if your rods have not been shotpeened, then have it done. Better safe than sorry because when they go, they take out much more. Find out what the heads flow if you can and base you cam off of the heads. Depending on how well your heads were ported they could flow in the low 200's or vary poor. The heads are the key to power. If you just want to try them and see what you get out of your 906's, look for a cam in the range of .480 to .525 lift, 295 to 305 dregree on a 110 or 108 center. Put a 3.90/4.10 gear w/ 26" or 27" x 9" tire (springs NOT moved) or 4.30/4.56 gear in it with a 29.5"x11" tire (springs moved in). Get your distributor recurved and set your timing to 38 degrees total @ 2500.
Andy  

Hello, I am a new member and I have a similar question about how to make and 11 second B body. The engine is a 383 for a 1968 Roadrunner, I want to make it from a Big Block. The question I have is what type of measuerments such as for cam crank, carb., Intake, you know; those type questions. Is there a book I can get that would help me get the right parts for the time that I am looking to run? Thanx to all who may be able to help.  

I've got a '68 Dodge Dart with 440, that's gone as fast as 6.90's eighth mile..This is with a $10,000 car, the whole car not just the engine...

I did it the old fashion way.......
NITROUS...When used properly, you ain't lived till you've dropped the hammer on a 440 in an A-Body with a 200 H.P. shot of nitrous! The rear spring's are moved inboard, and the rear is all factory stock Chrysler....Nothin' exotic, just good 'ol fashion power...Your tryin' to do it on motor, well, it's gonna take the compresson that will make it a bear to drive on the street with race gas gettin' up around $7.00 a gal. Not to mention GEARS...I'm runnin' 3.91:1 and they are a bear to drive at 65 MPH.....  

An eleven second A-body is easy, Set the car up with Super stock springs and an adjustable pinion snubber in back, 90/10 shocks in the front. You'll need 4.10 or better gears and a sure-grip or spool.

As far as the transmission, a stock torqueflite with a bolt in sprag and 9 inch, 4,000 plus converter will do it.

As far as the engine, a properly built 440 will do it, even on pump gas. A minimum to run 11s in my experience would be a 10:1 compression 440 with ported 915 or 516 closed chamber heads. Edelbrock heads would be even better. A solid, flat-tappet cam with around .590 lift should do the job. your fenderwell headers are fine.

If you want to run quicker, bump up the compression and go to a roller cam. Look at the article we just did on Tod and Garret Struck's '72 Duster. We ran 10.20s with a budget minded 440 in a 3100 lb. Duster on 10 inch tires. This was a 12:1 compression engine with a roller cam, but gives a good indication of what the 440/A-body combination is capable of.  

i had a 383 with a 590 cam in it the motor was built by "ohio geroge montgumery" hes a close family friend i put eagle h-beam rods had the block line decked and bored .30 over and me and my father put a set of 915 heads on it for the tranny i had a 4spd with over drive (its not perfered if you gonna race go with a hemi 4spd with straight cut gears).i have a ladder bar welded on my 8 3/4 rear and in it was 456gears at 70mph its running about 2500rpms i don't know if itll do 11's but it'll hull the mail and i ate up a 572c.i. chevy truck down in florida. i also have a 250 nitrous kit on it but i was told it can handle 1000  

383 engine is a great engine. I also live in s fla and your car sounds like a real sleeper. Did you use the 67 915 heads with smaller valves or upgrade to 2.08 and 1.74s or larger? Also what cam do you run?  

4 door standard 23 spline 4 speed is good for 500 ft lbs. of torque for 10 hours according to what I read.So ya have to shift from 2nd to 4th then 3rd 383 is perfect as it will come close to the 500 ft lb torque number, now put that trans behind a built 440 and it wont last very long, also the overdrive has a 5.20 retainer did you use the 5.20 retainer bellhousing also or go aftermarket? think the cams a lil big with no port work but sounds like a fun car . regards, mopar 196222222222  

Do you know tommy rodreguiz and his son? Fred from belleglade is also good machinist and very knowledgeable. tommy from engine works? joey from jupiter? avoid jerry, hes a nice guy but overpriced. Yes his son committed suicide and he hasnt been the same since. joe grosso? he just passed away, good guy ,pure mopar ,he wanted my duster im selling to put a 400 hp 392 hemi in it but died before he could look at it, now thats hard core. anyhow, hello fellow floridian, lets pray for tax reform next year. heh, take care  

1000 hp and that trans blow your legs off .cant handle it. fact. please use a trans. blanket on present combo  

383 0nly has max of .290 webbing around main shell, no way will this hold 1000 hp ,if your serious you set proper top ring gap ,1/2 fill with block filler,main studs, aluminum caps, and a girdle at minimum  

bahahahahhaah einstein was crazy too.....  

hey mopar 1962 how ya doin, i got boucnced to  because of "340 4spd valaint" and he went back in as "That was FunnyT.18 degrees of initial that car aint statrting 10. degreees at idle 38at 2500. the dynamic/tct 9.5 is a good piece i ran one for years, it was a Fairbanks piece that Frank did when his family Owned Fairbank. it been in at least 6 different cars i know of.  MPOAR 1962 YU SELL THAT DUSTER YET???? EMAIL PIC to hotrod7043@verizon.net  

I just try to help bro,have enough personal problems of my own.yeah, I still got it, ill email you pix when im done here, its sharp. initial is used for starting a car .what noone here seems to understand is spark advance in the distributor which actually retards the engine for easier starting.its always total on a performance car and some dont understand total includes spark advance also. I run total and never even look at initial, using a standard starter I havnt had any cranking problems or had to replace the starter in 2 years running 13.5 to 1 compression. I know wtf im talking about, believe me, and just try to help folks out when I can, im not  a wizard by any means but know enough to know im right when I post something in most cases.fabo is short for fabio,ya read the sneaky marine post? how bout the ,hey ,you signed up for it while they praise this punk reservist that dam well hasnt seen combat, he seems to want to sword fight a lot with his *** but I know hes just a lil punk bug I could step on and smash. mr call me out haha , I would drive to his location and *** slap the hair off that punks head if I wouldnt get sued, same as to most of the others who stuck up for his punk azz.anyhow ,lifes too short, pix soon.ps.. the 360 missing at 4000 rpm post is correct friend.