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360scamp
New User
| Posts: 1
| Joined: 04/04
Posted: 04/12/04 05:02 PM
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Heres what I have so far... 76 360, maciene work was .040/10/10 with stock crank and rods, I got a speed pro rebuild kit from summit with the 8.66:1 Hyp. pistons (I know I should have gotten the bigger compression ones), I have a Hydrollic Mopar Purple cam kit...* Advertised duration: 292 intake/292 exhaust * Gross valve lift: .508 in. intake/.508 in. exhaust * Lobe separation: 108 degrees * RPM range: 2,800 to 6,200 , I have a set of new valve springs off a set of edelbrock performer heads, a older edelbrock duel tunnel ram, and 2 500 cfm edelbrock carbs, the heads are the stock 76 heads (so far) plans are for 2.02/1.60 valves and a good port job. This motor is getting put togeather with the extra parts in the shop (block, heads, intake, carbs, cam kit and new springs). here are the questions.... should I have the heads milled to up the compression and if so how much, piston to valve clearance with or without milling? 1.5 or 1.6 rockers? Stock push rods or longer/shorter ones? I was told by one guy that if I ran 3 to 4 degrees advance It will be ok for a driver with my 3.23 rear and 904 with a shift kit what would be the best size stall converter for driving with some 1/4 mile time. What a bout a goot harmonic ballancer? I still need to take it back to the shop and have them ballance everything before it gets put togeather. If you havent noticed Im not a motor man I can fab and weld anything I need to tho. This motor is going in a 73 scamp that already has a 360/904/8 3/4 in it. Any help would be apreciated.
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Detar
New User
| Posts: 43
| Joined: 10/03
Posted: 04/12/04 11:00 PM
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What cc's are the heads? How far down in the hole are these pistons? That cam is 248 @ .050!!! Thats a 11 to 1 cam. You need at least 185psi cranking pressure to run that cam, if not, it will run like a dog out of the hole.It makes power in the 3500rpm and up to 6500rpm range. You will need at least 4:10 gears and a 3500 stall torque converter to make any useful gains with that cam. I used to run that cam with a 10.0 to 1 360 I had, it was down on power till I shaved the heads to get the cranking pressure up to 180.Forget the tunnel ram for the street, it's just eye-candy. What would be better would be a E-Gap and a 750 double pumper. Before you mill the heads, has this block been decked? If so, how much? You will need to know how far down in the hole this piston is to get the deck height, do these pistons have valve reliefs? What cc head gasket are you going to run? You will need to get these numbers in order to figure the compression ratio.There can not be any guessing, you must know exactly what these specific numbers are to calculate compression. You need a gear, not a highway gear, 3:91 would be a minimum with this cam. It is more of a race oriented cam, but I guess you could drive it on the street. My daily driver is a 71 dart with a 360. It has a 230 @ .050 cam and is 10.1 to 1 compression, it more than enough to run on the street and it runs 12.38's 12.40's with a 3500 stall converter and a 3:91 gear with 27" tall tires. Engine by DeTar
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drmopar
Enthusiast
| Posts: 437
| Joined: 02/08
Posted: 03/26/08 08:14 PM
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Lose the cam period, this is a drag race only cam especially when talking small blocks. I ran this cam in a 440 with 10 comp. and still was never happy with the way it left with an 850 dp. Simple rule of thumb, 284 duration cam works everytime. Never venture over 242 at .50 unless you plan on steep gears, and a high stall converter 3500+ especially in a small block. My current ride is a 360 with the same pistons you run, .40 off the j heads, this is the max, plus the thin head gaskets .024. Gives me cyl. pressure around 150 lbs. with a solid lift mopar cam 284/.528 with 241 duration at .50 Runs 12.67 in a B body. Lose the tunnel ram, you will only run slow and spend a bunch of unecessary money trying to get it to work. 750 d.p. with an airgap will make max. power and driveability will be very good. If you don't want to run a solid cam Lunati and comp cams have a number of very good Hydraulics in the .510 lift range with 284 duration. 1.5 rockers will give better wear and life over the 1.6. 1/5/8 headers will probably give better e.t.s than 1/7/8 headers although the 1/7/8 header makes a little more power. 1/5/8 headers are good up to 425 hp. so stay with them. Good Luck, if you have any questions you can e-mail me at 67mopar@sympatico.ca
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Posted: 03/26/08 10:24 PM
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I run the MP .528 in my 10.5 340, 4spd, w/3.73 gears. I get about 155psi w/4 1/2*cam advance. If you ask me It is the perfect dual purpose cam.
age is no lock on brillance
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Posted: 06/29/08 10:12 AM
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I run a Comp Cams 268 single pattern 218/218 @.50.454"/.454"; I have 915 J heads with 2.02 int and 1.60 ex which were treated to a performance valve job and planed .30, and a slight bowl blend although I don't think that the engine had been decked previously. I think that the compression ratio is between 9.5/8:1 with no pinging when I use 87 or 91 octane rated fuel.
It has a Edelbrock Performer aluminum intake which has been gasket matched, 1" four hole carb spacer for the 600 cfm Edel. Performer Carb. Cam was installed at 0* although the cam has 4* adv. built into it. I did not degree the cam (bad mechanic)because she is a daily driver. Spark is provided by an MSD Pro-billet distributor and 6AL box and 8.5 mil. wires timing is 36* total @ 2500 rpm. The trans is a 727 auto and the rear is 9.25 with the stock 3.23 gearing.
My "Seat O D Pants" dynometer tells me that this combination makes a conservative 350 hp. I will be moving up to a set of 273 1.6 ratio rockers soon so if the math is in the ball park I should have .474" lift and make it to 400 horses with a stock bottom end and long tube headers What else within reason would you guys suggest? ie, Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake, roller rockers, excluding stroking her out to 408 ***
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drmopar
Enthusiast
| Posts: 437
| Joined: 02/08
Posted: 09/03/08 06:28 PM
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Trust me your 1.6 rockers are only worth 10 horse power, gotta question if its worth it. Better to do with a solid cam as recommended above.
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Posted: 09/04/08 07:27 PM
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i need some help. i got a 1983 dodge ram 150. It has a 79' 360. this thing is a BEAST at 4 ,000 rpm, but it wont turn the tires over from a stop! The 360 just got 340 heads(got them brand new for $250.00),it has a mild cam, 4 barrel chrysler intake (dual plane),and a 600 cfm elderbrock performer. 2 1/2 dual exhaust. everything else is stock. And is a points distributor better than a lean-burn system?
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Posted: 09/04/08 07:29 PM
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oh ya my user name is just a joke. i give my wife for a hemi!!!! no joke there!
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drmopar
Enthusiast
| Posts: 437
| Joined: 02/08
Posted: 09/04/08 07:40 PM
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79 360, low comp. motor, you will need to cut .040 off the 340 heads and use some thin head gaskets from mopar performance, degree the cam 4 advanced. Get a real dist. you can go to the wrecking yds and pick up a electronic dist. the wiring harness and a control box with a ballast resister for less than $50.00. You can find the instructions to install this on the internet look for my mopar.com under electronic ign. conversions for dodge 360. Set the timing to 12 degrees initial, as long as the engine doesn't ping under acceleration your set. Since this sounds like its a street truck be sure to run the vac. advance. What about headers, if you don't have any you should get some especially with the 340 heads.
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