Driveshaft my have to go

also dark, ya dont need or want to check the 3/4 measurement by pilling the whole driveshaft off, as ya know this will be quite messy, heh, take care,glad to help friend  

mopar- I am thinking you have me confused with the person who started this thread?  

yeah dark, I do, but the info is correct and also applies to you so its better to listen then nitpick, sorry  

no problem mopat.  

I was going to send the driveshaft out for balancing first but now I will check the pinion angle. Is it difficult to correct this? I am installing Yukon axles with a 4 1/2' bolt pattern, is that a job that I can do? The axles have green bearings and they say there is no adjustment. I am also changinging the backing plates to accept 2 1/2 drums and shoes. One of the problems I am having is taking off one of the wheel adapters that I am getting rid of. One 3/4"nut has been rounded off and I can't loosen it. Thanks, Jon.  

pinion angle is very easy to check. It might take a little bit to understand how to do it though but once you know it only takes a couple of minutes. A really good book that tells you all kinds of stuff like this is the Mopar performance books. Can you cut the rounded off nut off or get ic off with a little heat?  

Also If the driveshaft length is not right- just skip the balancing and get a new one made. The stock shaft will have a tapered tube with an inner steel
tube and rubber between the tubes- I have found these to have balance issues.  

The end of the nut is tapererd into the adapter may be tought to cut. If I heat it maybe I can twist it of with some good old visegrips. The drive shaft is a 1/2" too short. Taked to a driveshaft specialist at Mancini Racing and he said if you car is stock 3/4" of play is good in the slip yoke but if it's not you should have at least 1" and a maximum of 1 1/2" do you agree? Thanks again, Jon.  

aha ,see, im not dumb afterall. 1 inch is ok, dont reccomend anymore than that.,but I sure wish I would have listened better when I was younger.you can install the axles and make sure you get the gasket kit with it.you may also want to replace your inner axle seals to be on the safe side,you can get them at napa for 8 bux and the gasket kit.put some muscle behind that lug and maybe a pipe wrench would do the job better.also be gently sliding axles back in as if ya arent your gonna mess up the new inner rear seal. 5 to 7 ,nose down  

thanx for info on shock plates from the 8 1/4 to the 8 3/4. didnt know that.  

ya can probably break the aluminum adapter plate with a sharp chisel and a good blow from a hammer if the bolt head is inset without harming the backing plate. they were, and always will be junk.take care,  

watch your eyes if ya cut it off if it pops. I totally disagree with mancini as hes not taking in the pinion snubber factor.  

I did check pinion angle and went with a 3 degree shim to give me a 6 degree angle it helped a little. Then I jacked up the rear and put a gear clamp around the driveshaft and then put the car into drive to feel for the vibration. I turned the clamp until it seemed to have the least amount of vibration. Just got back from a drive and it is 10 times better. I will get my driveshaft balanced 100% but now I know it was my driveshaft all along.Thanks again for all the great advice. Jon  

It turns out my driveshaft was way out of balanace but before I balanced it I put a 3 degree shim.It seems to have a vibration when I let off the gas at 65 mph. Any Idea's? Jon  

It's called pinion angle and if it's not right thats one of the things it will do.
Stock w good leaf springs=2*-4* nose down [that would be the pinion yoke on the rearend]. Go back to the drive line shop and either get leaf springs that don't sag or have them do a cut and roll to correct the angle. [or both]
oh and make sure those u joints aren't wasted.  
age is no lock on brillance