budget 318 build

I found some 1800-2000 stalls.  Do I need different sized lifters for the new cam.  

You just need 'new' lifters for your 'new' cam.
A 'cut' converter should give you 2100rpm or so, check with local trans shops in town and ask who rebuilds converters and can cut'em for high stall, I do like the 2400 though.  
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phelpsja, milling .020 off the heads will increase the lifter pre load, but nothing to worry @.020.
Now consider this, stock 318 had a .020 thick steel shim head gasket and replacement felpro's are .039 so .020 off the heads really makes you only .001 tighter in that scenario.  
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Here is what I have

1972 Scamp
318/904
8 3/4 with 3.91 suregrip
trans.= deep pan kit, removed accumulater spring,turned up line pressure
torque converter=tci-breakaway 2400 stall
bore = stock, re-ringed
heads = stock valves,little port job(done by myself)
MP pushrods,rockers,shafts,distributor,viscous fan
cam = compcams 268h duration268,218@.050,.454valvelift intake and exhaust,lobe centerline110,intake centerline106
intake = weiand x-celerator(checked ports to match gasket)
carb. = (big) holley 750cfm vacuum secondarys
ignition = msd6a
exhaust = hedman hedders,2.5"pipes with h-pipe,flowmaster40series,2.25"tails
tires = front 205-70-14,rear 245-60-14

I was way big on my carb. but I got it because I was going to build a 360 to put in my car. It had a flat spot on the bottom end until I put the msd on it.For a 318 all you need is from a 600 to a 650 cfm. 3.91 gears are fun but not if you drive it a lot on the highway. My 3.55s were better for the highway. Mine come with 3.23s, they were ok if you wanted to run the highways all the time and wanted more topend. With my set-up most people around here did not belive that I had a 318 because of how it ran at the track.  

mr clean, your carb could be tuned as to eliminate the flat tha you bandaided with the multiple spark ignition.

Pump shot/pump cam and power valve.  
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mr.clean, how much hp does your setup make and what are your et's at the strip?  Just curious because my combination is similar except 600 cfm carb.  

I just wanna say;

AMEN, to what 3404spdvaliant said a few posts above.

Some of us just simply can not afford to go out and drop more money on another engine (block) and we have to make due with what ever it is we have.

Anybody short selling the 318 as nothing more than a people mover and label it as a under achiever is in serious need to develop there engine building abilty's and braoden there knowleadge on who to make horsepower.

Cubicly challenged dosen't equal slug/slow, but it does present a challenge that is made easier with more cubic inchs.

IF your not smart enuff to know how to make a small engine go fast, then by all means, get a larger engine and do what you know how to do.


Otherwise, your posting here with the advice of get a bigger engine when the OE poster just wants to make his smaller engine faster is not helping the seeker of knowleage.  

Hey guys, I'm building a 83 D100 with my son, will be his first ride and a street/strip deal, but mostly street.  The truck will weigh under 3000# actually closer to 2800# when done.

We have a 74 318 std bore donor bottom end, I was planning on keeping it stock other than freshening it up since it has the HD rods I'm told...????  We have access to a set of 68/69 340-X heads we planned on using with a cam grind close to the 340...????  I have a Weiand tunnel ram and planned on running a pair of 450 holley's....the tunnel ram is not a good choice I'm sure, but looking for the look....can this be streetable...or a complete dog...?????  We will run headers, 2.5" exhaust (will an X-pipe help???) and run through a 727 to 355 gears, 28-29" tires.

OK....Fire Away...  

I would get the compression up to 11.1-11.3, polish the 340 chambers a lil, equalize the cc's and mill down to the required cc /chamber volume.

Tell the cam grinder what you are using heads,intake/cfm,compression.
then
Ask the cam  grinder you choose [comp,isky,hughes,engle, etc] for his/her recommendation based upon that.  
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I'd also likely run about 28*-30* total timing w/22*-25* initial & all in at 1800 w/4spd.

The cam would be a lil lumpy.  
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with that tire get some 3.91- 4.10-4.30.  
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On trannys I have never had luck keeping 904s together; 727s are much better.
On 318 buildups; I have one in my 83 D 250 with the 727 and 3.55s;
at 120K the timing chain was so slack I'm surprised it didnt come off totally at speed; I put EQ heads,(EQ-318-B) a stock 360-2 cam (compare to COMP 252) 0.015" less lift; but with the Magnum 1.6 RAR, I got that back and then some; Performer intake  Eddy double roller chain  Carter 9636 AFB carb Hooker Super Comps and true duals 2-1/4, traditional "turbo" type mufflers (don't remember brand; whatever the muffler shop had) and I dont have dyno access; but WOW what a difference; I still need to play with the advance and I have a fresh TQ carb I wanna put on there yet; I think there's a bit more to be gotten out of this engine; but for a 3/4 ton truck that even gets USED as a truck, wow what an improvement! I have always had better service/performance from 318s than (stock anyway) 360s; them damn dished pistons and bigger chambers. put CR in the toilet and really castrated that engine; The ONLY thing a 360 does better than a 318 is SUCK GAS! though on paper you'd think different (longer stroke, etc)  

yeah i know what you mean....
They took a good idea and  crippled it.  
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hi i have a 318 stock 2bbl and i want to get atleast 300hp out of it i was thinking if putting headers on it, a holley 500,  mild cam. but witch cam would go good with this stuf, solid motor mounts,2 1/2 inch duel exhaust with glasspacks, and all the wirering gone throw with msd stuf  

i wat around 300-350 hp to my 318 with little amount of money put in to it my budget is 750.00 dollers i was thinking about putting mangnum heads on it put on ebay it says it will only work on the mngnum engine will mangnum heads work on my 1977 dodge 318?how much would just a holley 500 and headers add to a stock dodge 318?